How Do You Take Care Of Ferrets?

Perhaps you're thinking about buying a ferret, or perhaps you already have one. Either way, you may be wondering how to take care of ferrets, so you can make sure your ferret has the best life possible. Care of ferrets is simple but you need to have the right information, or you're just wasting your time.

Step one to learn how to take care of ferrets is to begin researching. Avoid the thousands of websites full of junky, useless information and go to a credible source to learn how to take care of ferrets. No point learning info
mation that doesn't work or is unhelpful.

While you're learning about how to take care of ferrets, have your children or friends learn too. They can research more than care of ferrets and maybe find some tips on teaching or training them. Again, let me mention, a credible resource that is specific to ferrets will cover how to care for ferrets and much more.

The care of ferrets goes beyond diet and training to use a litter pan. There are things to do when they become sick, things to do so the litter pan isn't so messy and ways to teach and train, all the while taking great care of ferrets.

All animals have unique qualities and ferrets are no different, so taking the time to learn how to take care of ferrets should include learning more then the basics. If you know anyone who has a pet ferret, they might be a good resource. However, friends and veterinarians, while helpful, can't answer every possible question - a good guide can though.

So as you progress on your journey of learning how to take care of ferrets, keep in mind a few things. First, make sure you're learning from a credible source, understand care of ferrets is more then feeding them, and that, most importantly, your ferret will benefit from the great care you're giving them.

Martin B. Kutcher is a Pets expert and director of CaringForYourPetsInfo.Com. Martin provides honest information and advice on things like Ferret Training and much more

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The history of Rottweilers

The history of rottweilers is rich one. Ranging from the Roman Empire to German butchers to cattle hearders and guard dogs. Through the years it has gained reputation for its great strength and intelligence.

Rottweilers have a history that goes way back through times. There are as with most different breeds, different versions of their past. Some claim the rottweiler is entirely German developed by butchers. Others say it is a descendent from the Bouvier. Yet others tell the story as we tell it below.

Lets ret
rn to the time of the great Roman Empire where they controlled large portions of land. In Germany there was a small market town called Rottweil, hence the name rottweiler. In these times the legions got their supply of meat by having it mobile, meaning they brought their cattle with them.

The assistance of working dogs was needed to herd the cattle and this is where the rottweilers come in to business. One travel route was through the town Wurttemberg and on to the market town of Rottweil mentioned above. This region became an imporant cattle area and here the cattle dogs really proved their worth. In these times the rottweilers were thought to be called Rover dogs and they also carried wood and other products to the market.

Not only did the rottweilers herd the cattle, they also protected it from anyone trying to steal some of them. It took quite some courage to even try to bypass this strong and intelligent dog. They did service also by guarding supply dumps and were the camp dogs of preference.

There is a painting by flemish painter Peter Paul Reubens (1577-1640) that depicts a dog biting a wof in the back. This dog carries strong reassemblences with rottweilers.

In the years to follow the breed started to decline though and it went so far that in the year of 1900 there was only one female dog left in the town of Rottweil. Then in the start of the 20th century came the First World War. This increased the demand for police dogs and the best dogs that could be found for this purpose was of course the rottweiler. As demand increased the breed flourished and again become well known for its strength, intelligence and ability to be well trained.

After those days the rottweiler also became very popular with dog owners. In 1935 the breed was recognized officialy by the American Kennel Club. A year later they were exhibited in Britain. It was widely used again as a guard dog during the second world war.

Through the years the rottweilers have gained a proven reputation as the best and most efficient guard dogs there are.

About the Author

Kari Eriksson is an infopreneur and a dog lover since many years. Lately Rottweilers have become a special interest and he operates The Rottweiler Directory at http://www.rottweilerdirectory.com alongsides with http://www.rottweilers-online.com where you can find articles, links and useful resources.

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Dogs and Bull Frogs

The Saint Francis Effect Extends To Every Day Life On Blue heron Farm

Friend Bull Frog has come to live with us in the basement.

This is the height of cricket season, and crickets live in abundance here on Blue Heron Farm.

Bull Froggy loves crickets.

S/he lives under an under water rock.

When we plop the cricket into the water, Bull Froggy, with the speed that the eye can see only briefly, zips and splashes and the cricket is gone.

What a show!

The dogs are first to line up for this natura
entertainment and wonder.

Froggy seems to in-joy being the center of such gleeful delight!

This reminds me of the Saw-Whet Owl we rescued after she crashed into our windshield, crossing the Gettysburg Battle Field.

Tom's Aunt Hilda was dying and we were traveling to her to offer our support.

We later found out that the Saw-Whet migratory pattern centers right there and was in place long before the Battle itself.

We took her home and nursed her back to good health, and she lived in the barn that entire winter.

A small owl of all types of woodlands, the Northern Saw-whet Owl can be found roosting in winter in small, dense conifer trees, sometimes even in parks and gardens. Its defense upon discovery is to sit still and not fly, leading people to perceive them as "tame."

The main prey items of the Northern Saw-whet Owl are mice, and especially deer mice of the genus Peromyscus. Adult mice usually are eaten in pieces in two different meals. One owl was found dead after apparently trying to swallow a large mouse whole.

The female Northern Saw-whet Owl does the incubation and brooding. The male brings all her food while she is incubating. She leaves the eggs for only one or two short trips each night, to defecate and cough up a pellet.

While the female Saw-Whet broods her nestlings, she keeps the nest cavity very clean. But, when the young are about 18 days old, she starts spending the night in another hole, and then the dirt starts to accumulate. When the young owls leave the nest after another ten days to two weeks, the nest cavity has a thick layer of feces, pellets, and rotting prey parts.

The food of our Saw-Whet consisted of a mouse or two each day. We'd carefully place the rodent into a coat pocket before walking quietly into her territory.

She was waiting for us.

Like the speed of bewitching magic, she's swoop and take that mouse out of pocket and return to her perch on a high barn beam, bowing each time with wide alert eyes.

A thank you.

A message of gratitude.

The day Tom's Aunt Hilda passed, our Saw-Whet buried herself alive in the corner of the barn.

Saw-Whet was a messenger of the after-life worlds, calling to all of us if we listen.

Bull Froggy reminds me of the owl, of the dogs, of the river where she will ultimately make her way back, to the depths of worlds made more mysterious by the unseen depths of moving water.

About the Author -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--=-=- Kate Loving Shenk is a writer, healer, musician and the creator of the e-book called "Transform Your Nursing Career and Discover Your Calling and Destiny." Click here to order the e-book: http://www.nursingcareertransformation.com Check Out Kate's Blog: http://www.nursehealers.typepad.com http://www.katelovingshenk.com/blog -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

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Finding The Right Pet Stroller For Your Boxer Dog

No need to leave your dog behind. Find comfort and ease strolling with your dog with the help of pet strollers. Find out the things to consider when purchasing...

Now that you have decided to get a stroller for your Boxer dog, the next step towards a relaxing, comfortable and safe trip is to purchase one. But before you finally dash to the counter and pay for your chosen pet stroller, make sure that the one you chose is appropriate for your dog and suit the activities you and your dog will be doing. Below are the few things
o consider when purchasing a dog stroller.

- Pet stroller capacity is one of the most important factors to consider when purchasing a stroller intended for your Boxer dog. Lucky if you have a small dog, pet stroller capacity is not an issue. However, if you have a large pet that weighs more than 25 lbs., make sure that the pet stroller you purchased can carry the weight of your pet.

- The functionality is another factor to consider. You may want or need to transport your pet by hand in carriers so it is a better idea to choose a pet stroller with detachable carriers that separate from stroller frame.

- There are several types of pet stroller. If you plan on jogging with your pet, then you need a stroller specifically designed for jogging. This type of stroller provides maximum stability. Other strollers are designed for long distance trips and some with detachable carriers. Choose which one best suits your needs.

- A pet stroller should have a lot of storage space especially if you are planning to take your pet on long journeys. Some strollers have pouches, pockets or trays used for storing things like pet treats, water bottles, keys and other. Consider this when purchasing.

- Naturally, pet stroller price varies based on the type, functionality and design. The price however, is not a guarantee that you will be getting everything that you need. Choose a good quality one and keep an eye on imitation strollers for they have already started showing up on market. Look for genuine and good quality brands to ensure safety and prevent wasting your money. When purchasing, consider also the shipping charges and shipment. Read and understand return policies to find out if the policy is fair.

With all the variety of pet strollers to choose from, be sure to choose carefully. Remember that your dog's safety is at risk so choose carefully.

About the Author Richard Cussons writes articles about Boxer dog. Visit boxersavvy.com and learn more about Boxer dog training.

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How To Tips To Help Your Pets Avoid Holiday Hazards

As we look forward to the many gatherings of family and friends during the holidays, we need to keep a few points in mind in order to keep our pets safe and healthy. Pet owners need to be aware that what may be considered harmless to humans, in the form of extra rich foods and decorations, may pose a serious health risk to our beloved family pet members.

Remember, your pets are not garbage disposals for any holiday leftover. If  your dog/cat swallows poultry bones, they can splinter and cause blockages. If your pet is used to having le
t overs, make sure they get meats without rich sauces or spices. It is always a good idea to give them fresh vegetables. Also, candy and sugar may give your pet diarrhea or other intestinal problems. This is not what you want to see at any time of the year! Older animals have more delicate systems and nutritional requirements. Do not give your pet chocolates--chocolate is POISONOUS. Some other problem foods for our pets: any alcoholic beverages, coffee grounds, espresso beans, moldy or spoiled foods, onions or onion powder, salt or yeast dough, raisins and grapes.

Most animals do not like change. If you are a cat owner, then you already know that cats are creatures of habit. They definitely do not like any kind of change in their daily routine, so if you move your furniture around for a large gathering, this disruption could cause your kitty to stop using the litter box. Crowds, noise and holiday festivities can frighten our animals. If they do not handle noise or crowds around, then give them a safe, quiet place they can retreat to until everything settles down. 

Any exposed wiring might look tasty to a puppy or kitten that loves to chew on things. Try to hide the wiring and tape down any exposed, loose wires to the baseboards. Holiday plants are another concern. Poinsettias, mistletoe, ivy, holly berries, bittersweet can all be poisonous or fatal if eaten. This is important to remember if you have small children in the house, also. 

Cats and dogs love to romp around in the discarded wrapping papers and boxes. Be sure to cut away the handles on the shopping bags, as small dogs and cats could easily choke on them. Also, keep aluminum foil away from your pets. If they swallow any bits of this, it can cause intestinal blockage and vomiting.

If you decorate a traditional Christmas tree, be sure to anchor it to the floor, so that if your cat decides to go climbing, he doesn't topple it over. You might consider decorating with animal friendly ornaments. Baking cookie ornaments that your dog or cat could eat can be fun. Do not use raisins to decorate the cookies, or if you do not have the time to bake, then decorate with small pet toys. These can be purchased all year with this thought in mind, at  many pet stores. Then you will be ready,and you will not have to worry about the safety of your pets, as glass ornaments can shatter in your pets mouth, cutting the tissues and causing an emergency visit to the veterinary hospital. It is easier and less expensive to protect your pet.

Believe it or not, some dogs and cats drink water from the Christmas tree stand. Do not allow this, as this water may contain fertilizers and bacteria which may lead to vomiting and diarrhea. Keep a tree skirt or covering around the bottom of the tree. 

This has been reported many times, but it bears repeating. Antifreeze is very dangerous. It has a very pleasant taste, but it contains ethylene glycol, which can cause rapid and permanent kidney damage to your pet if he swallows even a tiny amount. One teaspoon can be deadly for an average sized cat, which can swallow it just by walking thru antifreeze puddles and then cleaning his paws. Four teaspoons can be dangerous to a 10 pound dog if he just laps it up off the garage floor. 

It is always wise to inspect your home to make sure that it is safe for all who live there. Remember, many of these tips apply to the safety of small children, as they are usually playing with their pets. Using common sense will help to keep the family out of the hospital emergency room or the veterinary hospital.    

For more articles, information and news on dogs,dog health and other issues pertaining to dogs read Sparrow Darling's site http://www.dogsandothercompanions.com

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Feline Asthma And Your Cat

Feline Asthma is a respiratory condition that involves inflammation and excess mucous build-up in the airways. Muscles spasm and cause constriction of the airway, resulting in respiratory distress. Feline Asthma shares some characteristics with asthma in humans, including symptoms.

Signs of Feline Asthma may be as mild as an occasional soft cough and/or a wheeze. At times it may seem as though your cat is trying unsuccessfully to bring up a hairball. In extreme and chronic cases, one might notice a persistent cough along with labored,
pen-mouth, harsh breathing. At this point, an asthma 'attack' could culminate in a life-threatening crisis.

There are a number of treatment options which might include oral medications, inhalers similar to those used in human medicine, and nebulizers. These serve to help with daily prevention and also manage more severe episodes as they occur by reducing inflammation and helping to relax the muscles of the airway.

Even though the exact causes of Feline Asthma are unknown, it is believed that allergies could play a part. In addition to medical management, it may help to watch for possible triggers in the environment. Consider whether your litter is low-dust and unscented. If your cat has allergies to grains, corn and wheat based litters may pose a problem as well. Be careful when using household products such as aerosols, cleaners and polishes. Reduce exposure to vapors from garages, work areas, and special projects. Vacuum frequently and wash bedding often to help reduce dust mites. Watch for areas where mildew and mold may build up. If you notice seasonal occurrences, be mindful of open doors and windows. Look for reactions in stressful situations and limit exercise when appropriate. You may even want to discuss your cat's diet with your Veterinarian.

It is beneficial to keep a detailed journal of episodes. Include any observations of your cat's behavior and activity level leading up to an event, indoor and outdoor temperatures, weather conditions, and any household activities such as vacuuming and cleaning or projects using paints or chemicals. Note any changes in the diet you offer, bedding, and with the brand of litter you use. It is especially helpful to describe the signs you are seeing. Developing a scale where you can measure the severity of attacks and the effectiveness of any treatments you are using will help to add a little bit of objectivity. In doing this, you'll have an invaluable resource for your veterinarian and a possible means of anticipating problems.

In case of an attack be certain that you have your emergency supply of medications on hand at all times because an episode can occur with little warning. Since an already panicked cat will sense your anxiety, try to remain as calm as possible. Sometimes with mild episodes, just simply talking quietly and petting lightly and gently can help settle breathing. Be sure that you don't hover too closely. Holding or wrapping in towels or blankets will only result in increasing the sense that one is suffocating. Allow for a short bit of time to pass after giving oral medications or using a rescue inhaler or nebulizer. This gives you an opportunity to see if the treatment has been effective and also helps you to calmly prepare for the next step if more aggressive treatment is needed.

Many other medical conditions including infection, heart worms, foreign bodies, lung worms, cancer, and heart disease may mimic Feline Asthma, therefore it is vital for you to take your cat to your veterinarian for a thorough exam and medical work-up. Feline Asthma is typically diagnosed through clinical presentation, radiographs (x-rays) and lab work. Once diagnosed, your veterinarian will work with you to determine the optimal approach to treating your cat.

Initially, the diagnosis and management of Feline Asthma can be a frustrating and unnerving process, but if you suspect that your cat has this disease don't ignore the signs. Untreated, this can be a very uncomfortable and potentially life threatening condition for your cat to live with.

Copyright ฉ 2008 Renee L. Austin/Whimsy Cats LLC All rights reserved
This article may be reproduced in its original format and with the author's name and contact information.

For more information about the author, or to find out more about feline health visit http://www.whimsycats.com.

Renee L. Austin is the founder of Whimsy Cats, a specialized home care business for cats with chronic medical conditions and special needs. She also provides consulting services for veterinary practices. For more information visit http://www.whimsycats.com

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The Myth of 100% Complete Pet Food

Every day people subject their loved animals to repetitious monotony that they would never allow for themselves, and yet, unthinkingly pass their actions off as beneficial for their pets.

Every day, people by the millions pour food from a package into their pet's bowl. Day in and day out, meal after meal, pets get the same fare. This strange phenomenon is widely practiced by loving pet owners who believe they are doing the right thing.  

Why? Certainly because it is convenient, but also because t
e labels state that such foods are "complete and balanced," "100% complete," or that they have passed various analytical and feeding test standards. Furthermore, manufacturers, and even veterinarians, counsel pet owners about not feeding other foods, such as table scraps, because of the danger of unbalancing these modern processed nutritional marvels. The power of the message is so great that pet owners en masse do every day to their pets what they would never do to themselves or their children – force-feed the same processed food at every meal. 

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/premium_food.jpg 

Think about it. Our world is complex beyond comprehension. It is not only largely unknown, it is unknowable in the "complete" sense. In order for nutritionists and manufacturers to produce a "100% complete and balanced" pet food, they must first know 100% about nutrition. However, nutrition is not a completed science. It is, in fact, an aggregate science, which is based upon other sciences, such as chemistry, physics, and biology. But since no scientist would argue that everything is known in chemistry, or physics, or biology, how can nutritionists claim to know everything there is to know about nutrition, which is based upon these sciences? This is the logical absurdity of the "100% complete and balanced" diet claim. It is the reason a similar venture to feed babies a "100% complete" formula turned out to be a health disaster.   

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/nutrition_pillars.jpg 

In that instance, after sufficient disease and death resulted from attempting to retire the human breast to a mere appendage of adornment, government stepped in and controlled the commercial hype. Now doctors, nurses and purveyors of baby formulas cannot say these products are complete or that they are equal to or superior to breast-feeding. Good for the regulators. (Although they should have been proactive and prevented the disaster before it ever took root, not have merely stepped in after enough deaths accrued.) 

Even with that lesson as a dire warning, pet food regulators turn a blind eye. Instead of preventing pet food producers from claiming a processed food concoction is 100% complete, they in effect promote the death and disease-dealing specious claim by setting bogus standards that supposedly justify and authenticate the claim. They legitimize sloppy science in order to win consumer confidence. All a manufacturer has to do is guarantee that their percentage of protein, fat and the like meets National Research Council standards. In the alternative, manufacturers can do feeding trials on caged laboratory animals for a few weeks, measure cursory blood parameters, and monitor growth and weight – as if survival after a few weeks on a food has anything to do with achieving optimal health and long life! 

Down the primrose path millions of trusting pet owners go while at the same time unknowingly condemning their pets to terrible degenerative diseases. Pet food regulators then spend the majority of their time harassing pet food companies with picayune requirements about terminology on packaging and where certain words must be placed on labels. In this regard manufacturers must contend with the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture), FDA (Food and Drug Administration), AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials), and 50 State feed regulatory agencies. All for naught. It's like the entire police force busying themselves ticketing people for jaywalking while turning a blind eye to the murder and rape going on in the alleys. 

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/regulatory.jpg 

Claiming that anything is 100% is like claiming perfection, total knowledge, and absolute truth. Has pet nutrition really advanced that far? Does a chemist make such a claim? A physicist? Doctor? Professor? Did Einstein, Bohr, Pasteur, Aristotle, Plato, or any of the greatest minds in human history make such claims? No. Has the science of pet nutrition advanced to the point where everything is known about the physiology, digestion and biochemistry of animals, or that everything is known about their food?  Certainly not.

The fact of the matter is that the "100% complete" claim is actually "100% complete" guesswork. At best, one could say that such a claim is the firm possibility of a definite maybe. 

Each time regulatory agencies convene to decide how much of which nutrients comprise "100% completeness," debate always ensues and standards usually change. This not only proves that what they claimed before was not "100% complete," but this should also make us highly suspicious about what they now claim to be "100% complete." 

Moreover, consider that in order to determine the minimum requirement for a certain nutrient – say protein – all other nutrients used in the feeding trials must be adequate and standardized. Otherwise, if vitamin E, for example, is in excess or is deficient in the basal diet, how would one know if the results of the study were because of the effects of protein or due to something amiss with the level of vitamin E? 

If the minimum requirements for all 26+ essential nutrients were all set and absolutely etched in stone, that would be one thing. But they aren't. They are constantly changing. This means each time any nutrient requirement is changed, all test results for all other nutrients using the wrong minimum for this nutrient would then be invalid. Most nutritionists simply ignore this conundrum, feeling like cowboys trying to lasso an octopus – there are just too many loose ends. But they continue to perpetuate the "100% complete" myth, and excuse themselves by saying they make adjustments when necessary. An apology of "I'm sorry," when the false premise of "100% completeness" is still retained, deserves no forgiveness. 

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/new_wave.jpg 

Also consider that virtually all so-called complete pet foods are vigorously heat processed to gelatinize the unnatural starch components (making them "digestible" – meaning more easily converted to glucose) and to extend shelf-life by sterilization. Dry foods are extruded at hundreds of degrees and hundreds of pounds of pressure. Canned foods are retorted. Commercial pet foods also contain a mix of ingredients including meats, fats, starches (a variety of label dressing "natural" ingredient buzzwords) and vitamin/mineral "fortifiers." Although the ingredient label is evocative and beguiling, what is in the final product is another matter. Essential fatty acids are oxidized and isomerized. Cytotoxic, mutagenic and carcinogenic cholesterol oxidation products (COP) are formed, including C-7 derivatives, 5,6-epoxides, triols, 25-OHs and 3,5-dienes – the real culprits in human atherogenesis, incidently. The cooked meats form heterocyclic amines, proteins are degraded and amino acids destroyed or racemized. Carbohydrates are glycated, acrylamides are formed, vitamins destroyed, oxidized and racemized and minerals are complexed into unavailable matrices. The end result is a potpourri of imbalance, unavailability and toxicity – not "100% completeness." 

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/farmers_field2.jpg 

Yes, pets can survive for a time on such fare, but that is simply a testament to their physiological capacity to adapt. They seek equilibrium at higher and higher levels of toxicity until adaptive reserve is exhausted. Chronic degenerative diseases and immune failure is the end result. 

The point is, don't believe the claim on any commercially prepared pet (or human) food that it is "100% complete and balanced." It is a spurious unsupported boast, intended to build consumer trust and dependence on commercial products - not create optimal health. 

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/veterinarian_and_pediatrician.jpg 

Unfortunately, most people think animal feeding is a mystery. It is not. Animal nutrition is not a special nutritional science to which common sense human nutrition principles cannot be applied. Use the same reasoning in feeding your pets that you use for feeding your family. Nutrition is also not about some special ingredient, the absence of some boogeyman ingredient, or claims such as "natural," "organic," or the like.   

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/package.jpg 

If you feed processed foods, use discernment since just about anyone can create a commercial pet food. The pet food industry has hundreds of brands. Business profiteers and the occasional movie star are the most common forces behind the labels. All one needs is a little money and they can go to any number of toll manufacturers and have them slightly modify a shelf formula. Then all that is needed is to dress it all up with a fancy package, a clever brochure, and some advertising. Voila! Another brand is added to the 20-billion-dollar pet food industry heyday.  

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/one_for_all.jpg 

Nutrition is a serious health business, not a mere opportunity to turn dollars.  Check the credentials of the decision maker at the head of the company you are entrusting your pet's health to and examine closely its operating philosophy. Health competence and principle should come before pretty packaging and beguiling hoopla. The public is not well served by exclusively feeding products from companies without any real commitment to health… or knowledge of how to even achieve it. 

For the past 25 years, I have been a lonely voice in the wilderness trying to get people to understand the deadly health consequences of feeding processed pet foods exclusively. People want convenience in a bag and the industry wants the flow of billions of dollars to continue uninterrupted. In the meantime, the scientific literature offers compelling proof that millions of animals have been maimed and killed as a result of feeding thoroughly tested "100% complete" foods… with the full imprimatur of government regulation. (Exactly the same thing that abounds in the FDA-pharmaceutical industry.)  

Examples of pet food disasters include dilated cardiomyopathy from taurine deficiency, potassium imbalances, fatty acid and carnitine deficiencies and numerous other problems that would be expected on a steady diet of dead, devitalized, carbohydrate-based processed foods. Moreover, the whole panoply of human chronic degenerative diseases such as cancer, obesity, arthritis, autoimmunities, dental deterioration and organ failure are at epidemic levels in the pet population… as should be expected on such a diet. 

"Thousands of pet cats die each year with dilated cardiomyopathy… observed in… cats fed commercial cat food…" (Science, Volume 237, pages 764-8) 

Not only is feeding the same processed food day in and day out a formula for disease, it is a cruelty to pets.  It is one thing to take them from their interesting and active wild setting and confine them, but to not even offer them interesting natural meal variety is really quite inexcusable. The answer, like everything else good in life, is a little attention and common sense. Knowledge is the best beginning point. 

To learn more, obtain a copy of my book, The Truth About Pet Foods. I will also see to it that you get a free copy of my CD, "The Thinking Person's Master Key to Health," and the brochure, "How to Apologize to Your Pet," which will give you specific guidelines for how to select packaged foods as well as prepare meals and treats to achieve optimal pet health.   

Also you can go to Wysong.net, click "learn," then "pets" and read the "Don't Be Fooled" section. 

Further reading and resources of scientific references:

Wysong, R. L. (2002). The Truth About Pet Foods. Midland, MI: Inquiry Press.

Science, Volume 237, pages 764-8

Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 199, pages 731-4

Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 201, pages 267-74

Feline Practice, Volume 20, Number 1, page 30

Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 202, pages 744-51

Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 191, pages 1563-8

Journal of Nutrition, Volume 129, pages 1909-14

Journal of Nutrition, Volume 126, pages 984-8

Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 203, pages 1395-1400

Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 198, pages 647-50

Veterinary Clinics of North America Small Animal Practice, Volume 19, pages 527-37

Veterinary Forum, Volume 9, pages 34-5

Veterinary Forum, Volume 9, pages 26-8

American Journal of Veterinary Research, Volume 62, pages 1616-23

Petfood Industry, May/June 1998, pages 4-14

Journal of Animal Science, Volume 75, pages 2980-5

Veterinary Business, Volume 2, page 1

Waltham International Focus, Volume 3, Number 1, page 9

About the Author Dr. Wysong: A former veterinary clinician and surgeon, college instructor in human anatomy, physiology and the origin of life, inventor of numerous medical, surgical, nutritional, athletic and fitness products and devices, research director for the present company by his name and founder of the philanthropic Wysong Institute. http://www.wysong.net. Also check out http://www.cerealwysong.com.

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Puppy Training, a Positive Introduction to basic Obedience exercises

Pups are learning all the time and there is no reason to wait for them "to grow up" before you begin training. You can start your pup's first lessons at seven weeks. Doing some early training will turn on circuits in his brain that will make all later training easier.

Learning How to Learn 

Pups are learning all the time and there is no reason to wait for them "to grow up" before you begin training. You can start your pup's first lessons at seven weeks. Doin
some early training will turn on circuits in his brain that will make all later training easier.  

The goal for this puppy work is not that the pup learns the individual exercises, nor is it reliability of obedience to command. Rather, the goal is to have fun with your pup, jumpstart the learning process and to establish early on that good things happen when he is with you, and that good things come from work.   

Don't fret if you don't teach all the commands—doing any puppy work is better than none. While you are engaged in puppy training you are building a relationship with him. He learns to enjoy working with you as he learns about you. 

The great majority of puppy training and raising should emphasize positive interaction. However, your pup does need to learn some manners. He should learn early that there are some things he must not do. There are two reasons for this: 1) so you can stand to live with him, and 2) so that he learns to accept correction and parameters to behavior.  

The very short list of Don'ts includes: 

Don't bite humans

Don't jump on humans

Don't chew on furniture 

House breaking is better taught as a do rather than a don't. Teach your pup to do his business outside; try to avoid correction for going inside. Get a copy of "Eliminate on Command" by Dr. M.L. Smith. It's available on line at:
www.eliminateoncommand.com. 

Pups have a short attention span, so keep lessons brief and emphasize action commands. These are commands your pup can complete quickly such as sit, here, and finish to heel. Save the long stays and long heeling sessions for later when his attention is sufficiently developed to stay focused longer. 

Puppies learn exactly the same way as grown dogs (and people):  

A pup acts.

He experiences the result of his action.

He makes a connection in his mind between his action and the results, creating a memory.

If the result is desirable he is more likely to repeat that action in the future.

If the result is undesirable he is less likely to repeat that action in the future. 

Treat Training  

Food is a good motivator for puppy training but a weak motivator for grown dogs.

Motivational training is only part of a complete training program. In the end we want a dog that will obey commands, not simply respond to cues when there is nothing he'd rather do. While the principles espoused here and the benefits of puppy training will be an asset to your dog throughout his life, treat training cannot substitute for a formal training program for grown dogs.  

We will use food initially both to lure the pup into the action we want and as a reward for the desired action. When he knows the action we will put a cue to the action. When he will perform the action on cue, stop luring but continue to reward with food. After the dog is regularly performing correctly on cue, gradually reduce the frequency of the food reward. At first you are rewarding every correct response, and then go to every other response and then reward on an intermittent schedule. This is an important process—you do not want your dog to be dependant on the food lure, nor do you want him to be tied to a treat for every correct response. When you are rewarding intermittently he never knows which response will bring the treat so he will continue to work hard, hoping that each time may be the time.   

Start in a quiet room. I like doing the puppy training first thing in the morning before the pup's first meal—the pup is fresh, excited to start the day, and hungry! You also don't want to compete with the other dogs or people in the home for the pup's attention.  

You need a hungry pup and healthy treats that the pup can chew and swallow quickly. All-beef hot dogs cut to puppy-sized bites work well for most pups, although I use regular kibble for some chow hounds.  

Sit in Front  

Sit or squat on the floor with your legs or knees forming a V in front. This helps funnel the pup to the proper front alignment.  

Hold a treat in one hand out in front of you a little above the puppy's head level. When your pup notices the treat, raise the treat close to and over his head. He should sit, when he does, verbally praise and pet him and then give him the treat. If the pup stands up to wrestle the treat from you, twist your hand to protect the treat and prevent him from hanging on your hand. When he sits give him the treat.  

Don't worry if he jumps up as soon as he gets the treat; you're only concerned with teaching sit, not stay. 

Pause a moment and then repeat. After a few repetitions your pup will be sitting quickly to get his treat. Now let's put a cue or command to that action. From here on say "sit" as you start the hand movement and just before the pup sits. Continue to praise, pet and treat him when he sits.   

As soon as your pup is sitting, begin to work toward the perfect sit. You want to end up with straight sits, not flopped over on one hip. You want the pup in front and aligned facing you correctly.  

When you have practiced this for a session or two wean him off the food lure. Without holding the treat out in front of him say "sit" and then verbally praise, pet and food reward him when he does.  

After a few sessions begin to wean off treating the pup for every proper response, but continue to praise and pet him every time he sits on cue. 

Go out and Here--- Dixie Cup Lining Drills  

One of the easiest ways to teach your pup to come when you call him is to teach him to go away from you. Hold your pup and making sure he is watching, place a treat on top of a white eight ounce or larger Dixie cup.  Put the pup down about five inches from the cup and let him go. After he eats the treat call him to sit in front. Praise, pet and treat for every recall at first. 

Do several of these. When your pup is going straight to the treat and is sure of the location, begin to place the treat and then still holding the pup, back away, only a foot or so at first.  After you have backed up, hold the pup in front of you to show him the cup and then set him down and release him to get his treat. This sequence will become a pattern and a useful cue for him when you start lining him longer distances. After he eats his cup treat call him "Here" and praise, pet and treat (PPT) him for the sit in front.  As you increase the distance, begin to reward intermittently on the return, but continue to praise and pet him heartily on every return.  

Be sure to gradually increase the distance you are sending your pup.  As long as your pup is running straight to the cup and is not loosing focus on the task keep increasing the distances you back away.  

Kennel 

I teach grown dogs to go to a place board, half-crate, or pre-identified area on command. I use the command "Kennel" some like to use "Place." This serves to balance e-collar pressures because the action requires your dog to move away from you rather than toward you on command. This "kennel" command is also useful for loading a dog into boats, blinds, and crates. With grown dogs we will do initial force on casts using this command and introductory work on jumps. This is a versatile command.   

You can begin work on the kennel command once your pup knows sit. Use a place board about 12" x 12" and 2" high. Your pup will outgrow several puppy place boards so don't make them too fancy—I bet an old college text book will do to start.  

Use a treat to lure him on the board. When he climbs up on the place board or kennel give him the treat. Pause and allow him to explore and then climb off.  Repeat. 

When your pup is readily climbing up on the board you are ready to add a cue to the action.  Say "kennel" just as he begins to climb up.  

Begin to tell your pup to sit when he is on the place board. He has enough success now that you can stop giving the treat for climbing up and only treat for the sit when he is up. Very quickly you should be able to drop the sit command and his "kennel" will mean kennel up and sit.   

Call him off the place board to sit in front of you near the board and then cast him to kennel again.  

When your pup is responding quickly and reliably to your kennel command you can start gradually backing farther away from your place board. To make it easier for your pup walk toward the place board as you cast and cue him to "kennel."  

Introduce Jumps and Avoidable Hazards 

Once your pup is very comfortable on his kennel command and is lining out to the visible Dixie cups well you are ready to combine the two responses and introduce your pup to jumps. Start with a kennel close to you. Place your treat on the Dixie cup and back up. Hold your pup with the kennel just in front of you and between you and the Dixie cup. Release him to get his treat he should line right over the kennel to the cup and come back over the kennel on the return.  

With practice you can increase the distance between you and the kennel and between the kennel and the Dixie cup. Practicing success at short distances is better for your pup than pushing to increase the distance too fast and teaching him to run around the kennel.   

In Summary 

Your pup is only a pup for a very short time; don't expect him to act or train like a grown dog.  In addition to training, spend time with him just going for walks and let him run, jump and play.   

In all your puppy training remember your goals:

Have fun with your pup

You want your pup to learn how to learn.

You want to jumpstart the learning process

You want to establish early on that good things happen when he is with you, and that good things come from work.   

 by Pat Nolan

About the Author

Pat Nolan of Ponderosa Kennels in Smithsburg has over thirty years experience training dogs just like yours. You can read more about him and his methods at www.ponderosakennels.com 

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How to Choose the Right Dog Breed for Years of Quality Companionship

To bring a dog into the family is a big decision. The right dog can bring your family years of enjoyment and companionship, whereas the "wrong" dog can add miserly and annoyance to your life. There are many factors to consider in order to make sure you choose the best dog for your situation. This article discuss the important factors to consider before you bring home the puppy.

Dog owners don't just go out there and get any puppy they like! It is not as easy as you think. There are many factors to consider befo
e you decide to buy any puppy breed. Getting the right one will bring many years of happiness and quality companionship to you and your family. On the other hand, getting the wrong one will inevitably add headaches and irritations to your life.

Your financial standing, lifestyle, size and family type are important considerations to be factored when choosing a specific dog type.

While some breeds may required more attention, some require more exercises than the others, some are more suitable for families with young children, some are more prone to genetic health issues and some may simply required more money to own than others.

There are so many dog breeds out there to choose from and it is the dog owner's responsibility to find out which one is exactly suitable for his lifestyles and way of living. The number one reason for dogs to be surrendered to animal shelters is that they don't match the needs or the lifestyle of their owners. The idea of this article is to help you in choosing the right breed of dog to try and reduce the potential issues that could result when the wrong type is chosen.

Here are some important factors to consider before you proceed to bring your puppy home:

1. Accommodation - All dogs need some form of exercise in one way or another, but there are significant disparities among breeds. Small breeds tend to adapt better than large breeds to the smaller space available in an apartment. Nevertheless, some larger breeds who are not as active as others can still adapt well.

Consider how much room do you have for a dog, apartment and a house with or without fenced-in yard makes a different in the type of dog you should get. Having a fenced-in yard will cut down on the time required to walk your dog for bathroom breaks and exercising. All breed will adapt well in this type of setting, but the more active breeds will require more exercises. Giving a dog sufficient exercise is vital to having a good relationship with your dog. Many undesirable behaviors, such as hyperactivity, nuisance barking and destructive behaviors are results of insufficient exercise.

Regulations in your area regarding dog ownership also need to be considered. Some landlords do not allow dogs in their rental units at all, while some neighborhoods have strict guidelines regarding the size and the breed of dog that can be owned in that neighborhood.

2. Lifestyle - Dogs are social animals and require time from their owners, some more, some less. If you work long hours, a dog is really not the best pet choice, especially if you live alone. A pet like a cat or fish that require less upkeep may be a better fit for your lifestyle.

While there are some breeds that do not mind being left alone for longer period (Shetland sheepdog, golden retriever and bloodhound), many can suffer from separation anxiety and went on to develop undesirable behavior problems. Don't commit the crime of condemning an essentially social dog to lead a life of anxiety, and boredom. If you really cannot live without a dog, engage a dog sitter or put him at a dog daycare centre.

3. Family - Make sure that everyone in the family is supportive of a dog. There are breeds with tendency to show aggressive behavior and biting problems, which in most cases are unsuitable for families with younger children. Young ignorant children are likely to irritate the dogs through rough play without knowing what they are doing. Dogs joining a household with small children must be very tolerant of the children's play. Dogs from the herding group may not be the best choice as they have a natural instinct to herd livestock and may try to do so with your family. This natural instinct may cause nipping incidents to happen.

Existing pets in the household must be considered when getting a new dog. The temperament of the new dog needs to be compatible with those of the existing pets to make sure no problems will arise with the new addition. Territorial problems should be expected. They usually clear up within a week or so. It is recommended to feed the dogs in separate locations during the introduction period, as food is a common cause of conflict among dogs.

4. Financial Obligations - Dog ownership is a long commitment with on going expenses. The initial cost will vary depending on the breed and type of dog you select. On the whole, purebreds cost more than mixed breed dogs, especially if they are purchased from a breeder or a pet store. However, purebreds from breed rescues and animal shelter are less expensive. It is best to be able to see and meet your potential dog's parents.

Apart from the initial purchase price, you might want to go to a local pet warehouse to check out the prices of dog supplies. Dog food, collars, leashes, toys, food bowls, crates, and any other supplies you think you need for your dog, and not forgetting your veterinary bills, grooming expenses and even an insurance policy.

It is highly recommended to ask friends who own dogs about their expenses so as to give yourself a good idea of how much you need to commit financially to a dog.

5. Purpose of dog ownership - You should determine your purpose of dog ownership. Do you plan to breed, show, or hunt with the dog? Is the dog needed for service, therapy or for companionship only? For breeding or showing, you need a dog that meets or exceeds the standards for the breed and has all the appropriate documentation of its lineage. For hunting, you will require a good scent or sight-hunting dog. While many dogs are good for service or therapy, they need to have good temperaments, low ability to be distracted, and a willingness to learn. Knowing the purpose would inevitably help to select the right breed.

6. Size - Dogs can be largely divided into three size categories based on their weight at maturity. Small breeds are generally up to 20 pounds, medium breeds are from 20-50 pounds, and large dogs are greater than 50 pounds.

As a rule of thumb, bigger breeds are unsuitable if you live in a small apartment, or a home with a small or unfenced yard. Nevertheless, this is not the case for all dogs. Some breeds such as the golden retriever are still better suit living in smaller spaces than an active schnauzer. Temperament and activity level are equally important when selecting the right breed.

While smaller dogs generally do not require as much space as larger dogs, caution should be taken with small breeds due to their small and fragile bodies. Small dogs can be easily injured by rough play, either with people, or with larger dogs. On the other hand, large breeds can unintentionally cause harm to small children when playing. It is also found that large breeds have a shorter life span of 8-12 years while small breeds can live up to 15 or 16 years.

7. Temperament - Purebreds generally display well-understood mental temperaments and characteristics while mutts are more difficult to gauge. It is recommended to seek advices and consultation to choose a dog's temperament to complement your existing lifestyle. If you have children, look for dogs with a low tendency to bite and a high tolerance for handling. If it is a guard dog, you want it to be obedient but still able to effectively guard the territory. Dogs that are overtly aggressive should be avoided always.

In a nutshell, adding a dog to your family is a life changing and long commitment. Consider carefully before you decide to bring the puppy back. Take the time to choose the best dog breed. By doing so, I'm sure you will get to enjoy and be rewarded many times over by the love, affection and good company that he or she will bring into your life.

About the Author Moses Wright is an experience dog lover and owner of 3 beautiful dogs. He loves to help fellow dog owners with their dog obedience training problems. You can get a free copy of his book filled with useful and practical tips here: Free Dog Training Book

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7 Important Dog Training Tips For You

Dog training can overwhelm some people, but it really isn't that difficult once you have these important keys to guide you. Find out what works and what to do when it doesn't.

Dog training provides your dog with important lessons. They can save his life and they can protect you, your family, your neighbors and your household items.

Sadly, many dogs end up at the local pound because they never learned how to adapt to life within human society. This is often because owners don't know proper dog training metho
s. When their dogs seem unable to make the transition, owners feel their only alternative is to let the dog go.

This doesn't have to be the case for you. All it takes is knowing the right dog training techniques that work, how to apply them effectively and where to look for help.

One of the first lessons is for you.

Make dog training fun and enjoyable for you and your dog. That way, neither of you will become stressed or frustrated. Remember that dogs pick up on your emotions, the energy you emit. If you become tense, your dog becomes upset too. In this state, he is confused and unable to learn.

It takes time for a dog to learn and retain what he's learned. He might succeed admirably on your first training session, but the next day he's just as likely to have forgotten it. He might seem to have it down for an entire week or more and then fall back into his old habits.

He has a lot to learn in his youth. Because a dog's natural instincts are far stronger than any training you might apply, it's easy for him to slip back at this early stage.

This is a normal part of dog training, but it's not impossible to overcome. Simply reassert the training as a refresher course. Don't think that he just can't learn, because he can. He proved it by getting it right the first time.

Puppies love to play and interact with humans. While this is fun to observe and experience, it can present a problem during training. For an especially exuberant puppy, make extra effort to calm him whenever he loses focus.

You can do this by helping him expel some of that energy. Chase him around the yard, toss the ball, play tug-of-war, and anything else that will drain him. After about 15-20 minutes, or when you see he's slowing down, take a 5-minute rest and then begin the dog training.

Keep your training sessions short, especially at the beginning. He'll learn much better if you keep each lesson to under 10 minutes. Take a break, an hour or so, and start again.

Here are 7 basic dog training tips that will make training fun for you and your dog.

1. Seek out trained professionals. They can shorten the learning curve for you and your pet by using only the most effective dog training methods. No guesswork, just results. Refer to any of the great dog training books that are available for proper techniques.

2. Use positive reinforcement during the dog training sessions. Negative reinforcement, such as hitting your dog, can bring the opposite results to what you're trying to achieve. As well, negative punishment can make your dog fearful and even aggressive.

3. Make it fun! Dog training doesn't have to be a gruelling task. Dogs love to please their owners, so if the learning environment is relaxed and fun, your dog will learn much more easily.

4. Use small treat rewards to help make the training enjoyable. Choose a special treat to use only for the training process when your dog has completed a lesson correctly.

5. Choose appropriate training products. Speak to your dog trainer or pet store professionals for advice on the proper product for your specific needs. For basic training, you need the right collar and leash, which can be a clicker collar or one of the different types of harnesses.

6. Remember that it will take time for your dog to absorb and understand your dog training lessons. Allow him the time he needs but also remember to reinforce each lesson by using the same methods every time. This will help his retention.

7. Know when to change your teaching method. While you'll want to stick to one method, it must be one that actually works. Try different methods until you find one that gets the results you want, and then continue to use that method.

Once you see some results, you'll realize that dog training can be a rewarding experience.

You could consider it an art form or special talent reserved for people like you who have the envious ability to connect with their dogs on a unique level.

Done well, dog training is like poetry in motion.

About the Author Get more dog training tips!. Did you know: your dog's personality will determine the right to dog training method? Free book: Myths & Mysteries of Owning a Puppy

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Proper Turtle Care

Like most amphibians and reptiles, turtles are an exotically, fascinating species that many folks raise as pets owing to their 'novelty factor' and the fact that they need little "love" and attention. If you have large furry animals as pets, the pertaining to their care in terms of immunization, shots, operation and expensive accessories like dog houses, toys and grooming products is an inevitable expenditure and costly. By contrast, turtle care isn't as time consuming, expensive, and complicated provided they too are l
oked after with utmost care in regards to their diet, habitat arrangements and treatment to ensure a healthy and long life.

To keep your pet turtles safe, secure, and comfortable, you have to undertake a few measures like providing ample of room space to survive in, appropriate lighting, clean water and a basking lamp. If you want to keep your pet turtle free from any disease or infection, three rules of the thumb must be regularly administered: proper temperature in the aquarium, good water quality and regulated feeding habits. Your turtle's aquarium must be filled 2/3rd with water for swimming purposes and the remainder 1/3rd should be spared for basking reasons that is inculcated by bringing in a full spectrum ultra-violet light source. To ensure longevity and reduce the infections your turtle can get, it is very important to keep the water in the aquarium very clean and devoid of any contaminants with may be an aquarium filtration system. Algae can easy grow on a turtles shell. A strict regime must be followed when it comes to thoroughly cleaning the interiors as well as the exteriors of the aquarium. The very minimum is once a month but twice a month is much better.

When feeding your turtle, carry it out in another small holding tank, away from its normal enclosure as uneaten food and leftovers will invite disease causing microorganisms. If you are concerned about your turtles hygiene, rinse it's shell with slightly warm water after each feed. Make sure he is only feed proper turtle food.

Turtle care is a job for responsible adults. If not cleaned often and taken care of diligently, turtles emit a foul smell that can get unbearable. Avoid using tap water to fill your turtle's tank because tap water generally harbors chemicals like fluoride and chlorine which can cause the pH balance to go haywire. For swimming purposes, dechlorinated water must be utilized and filtered water for drinking.

Turtles are certainly interesting pets to raise, simply watch and interact with. They bring along a lot of selfless excitement and enjoyment for you and your family and in return expect a stable home and loads of love. However, it is important to care for them properly otherwise they will get sick and die. Without proper care, turtle shells will get bacterial infections. Be sure to take care of all the needs of your turtles.

Matt is the owner of many pet turtles and has been taking care of them for many years now. You can read more about turtle care and turtle tanks at his website on taking care of turtles

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How To Buy A Parrot Cage

Now that you've decided to create a beautiful home for your pet bird or Parrot you must now choose a birdcage to house your pet. Take into consideration some of the safety and health and growth concerns of your bird when checking out available options, choosing the right cage will be one of the most difficult decisions you can make for your bird. But if you follow our guide, you will have no problem in choosing the right cage for your Parrot.

One of your first concerns to consider is to purchase a relatively large cage for your bir
. Make sure that the bird cage has bars that are suitable for the size of bird. A couple things to consider are how widely spaced the bars are and how thick the bars are. If you have a large bird. Obviously, then bars will not work for your bird. Your bird will either bend the bars or break the bars over time. Also, make sure the bars are spaced so the bird's head doesn't get caught in between the bars. Either the bird cage bars need to be widely spaced so the bird's head doesn't get stock or are they need to be narrowly space of the bird can fit their head between the bars.

Choose a parrot cages that are made of stainless steel. Many cages have paint on the bars which can be chipped away by your parrot or large bird. The stainless steel cage is not only more durable but also doesn't have the paint that will get chipped away and digested by your parrot.

Another consideration before you buy a Parrot Cage is to make sure that the birdcage has pull out tray for easy cleaning. Without a pull out tray, you will have to take your bird out of the cage in order to clean the bottom of the cage. Also make sure that the door of the cage allows for easy removal of the water tray and seed tray.

Finally, one of the most important decisions is to make sure that your birdcage is tall enough and wide enough for the size of your bird. You want to be able to allow your bird to spread its wings and have some flying motion within the cage. So the larger the bird, the larger the cage he will need. Also make sure that the cage has a bird perch close to the foods so that the bird has something to stand on while eating.

If you follow these guidelines you will not be far from achieving the perfect birdcage for your Parrot or large bird. If you plan to put the cage in the corner of the house, make sure you purchase a corner cage that will be better suited for that area of your home. As stated above, the most important concerns are your bird's health, safety and growth. Choose a large enough cage and a cage. That doesn't have paint, and you will not be far from achieving the perfect cage for your parrot.

For more information on Parrot Cages try visiting http://ParrotCagesSale.com where you will find valuable information on Bird Cages, Bird Feeders and much more

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Chronic Ear Infections In Dogs Are Caused By Inhalant Allergies

Just as people suffer from hay fever in the spring and fall, pets can get inhalant allergies, called atopy. Atopy is a common disease, affecting 10% to 15% of dogs. The age of onset varies form 6 months to 12 years, with 70% of affected dogs showing clinical signs between 1 and 3 years. Atopy signs are usually seasonal in the beginning, but 80% of dogs eventually experience year-round symptoms. Atopy is associated with irritation in certain body parts of dogs, including the flank, feet, base of the tail, and facial areas
around the eyes, mouth, and ears. Female dogs are more likely to be affected than males.

Chronic ear infections are commonly caused by inhalant allergies. This is the most common cause of persistent ear infections in dogs. In certain breeds of dogs, the ears are covered by an ear flap which makes the inside of the ear canal moist and warm, somewhat like an incubator, which is the perfect environment for germs.

Dogs also have a lot of mast cells which can release histamine and other chemicals which are allergic. Thus, it is usual for dogs with allergies to have irritated and itchy ears. It is a long process where the ears are irritated by allergies and respond by producing more ear wax. Due to the inflamed ear canals and additional ear wax and the extra moistness and warmth of the ear canals of dogs, it is now obvious why dogs are so prone to ear infections.

It is important to control these ear infections early and consistently. If this is not done, the inflammation changes the structure of the ear canal and makes it harder to treat the infection. As a result, in many cases more difficult bacteria to kill eventually come to inhabit the ear. Take your dog to your veterinarian and find out if this is the problem and work with your veterinarian to develop a plan to control this problem consistently.

Atopy is sometimes controllable using a combination of essential fatty acid supplementation and an antihistamine like Atarax. This combination only works in about 10 to 15% of dogs but when it does work it is nice because there are far fewer side effects that with the use of corticosteroids.

About the Author I have studied the topic of dog allergies for about ten years. My goal is to help the dog owners to have better understanding of the treatment options in treating dog allergies. Find out more information about inhalant allergies in dogs at my site.


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Choosing An Wireless Dog Fence - Rf Vs Wifi

Until this year if you wanted an wireless dog fence, the only game in town was the PetSafe IF-300. Using traditional radio wave technology, the IF-300 creates a containment radius of up to 90 feet giving it a coverage of 0.5 acres. The IF-300 works well and gets good reviews from our customers, but the range limits its usefulness. After all the most common use for wireless systems, with their circular containment area is rural properties where a 90 foot range is simplify too small.

Perimeter Technologies is introducing in April 2009 a
iFi Fence, a wireless containment system based on the WiFi technology that is used in the wireless internet routers that are in most people's homes. This has two significant advantages, range and the ability for two way communication. It also has one significant disadvantage, power usage.

The WiFi dog fence claims a containment radius range of 200 feet giving it a containment area of over 2.5 acres, a major improvement over the IF-300. Although, we would love to see something even larger, using perhaps WiMax which has a reported range over a mile. WiFi still gives a large enough coverage area for your dogs to get some real space.

The WiFi fence also has two-way communication between the collar and the base station, telling the owner instantly how far the dog has wandered. I also gives you instant alerts if the dog challenges the boundary, if the battery is running low, or if the link between the collar and base station is lost. This alert is really useful and we hope it finds wider adoption, since particularly in the early days of the training you are constantly worrying about if the dog has escaped.

The downside is that WiFi is notoriously power hungry, so we are concerned that this will result in poor battery life. The collar for the WiFi dog fence is not rechargeable, and is likely proprietary so we hope that Perimeter has this problem solved because the feature set should make this the new leader in wireless dog containment.

DogFenceDIY.com is a resource written by professional dog fence installers that includes 100+ pages showing you system reviews, installation and training tips for an electric dog fence. The site features detailed DIY advice with videos, pictures and illustrations, system reviews and a dog training program to make your installation a success. Read more about the WiFi Dog Fence at http://www.dogfencediy.com/reviews/wifi-fence-dog-perimeter-technologies/

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How To Care For Turtles As Pets

Turtles can be great pets for children. They require very little attention and are usually very simple pets. In most cases turtles live for many years and require very little to stay healthy. If your child wants a pet but you are worried about who will take care of it or if it will die without proper care, a turtle could be the perfect choice. Most people agree it is very easy for children to care for these charming creatures with very little adult help.

Turtles do not require a large space to live in. You can use a terrarium or large
ish tank to create the perfect habitat. You will want to set up half of the space with water and half dry. Consider using a set up similar to a turtles natural habitat which would include rocks, plants, and tree branches. You will want to have a way to maintain the temperature when you care for turtles as well. Most species require a warm environment at 77-95 degrees.

When you choose to look after a turtle there are specific pieces of equipment that you will need to purchase. Turtles require a full spectrum UV light since the do not have the ability to store the D3 vitamin internally. You will also need a water filter for the water side of the tank. You can find these items at your local pet store or at online pet sites. Keeping the water clean is a major factor when you care for turtles. If the water gets dirty it can cause health problems.

When you are buying a new environment you will need to consider how easy it will be to clean. Most experts suggest that when you own a pet turtle you should clean the tank at least once a week to prevent fecal matter from piling up. You will need to clean your water filter at least once every month as well. If you don't it could become clogged and stop filtering. Make sure you get rid of any extras in the tank if they become wore out or can cause safety issues. Make sure anything you hang from the tank is secure after each cleaning. You do not want thing falling and harming your pet.

When you care for turtles you will need to choose a turtle food as well. You can find many types online or at your pet store. However, be aware not all food is made the same way with the same ingredients. You will want to make sure the food you purchase has all the proper vitamins and minerals that turtles need to stay healthy. Some turtles require a lot of protein as well. Each species has specific diet needs and In most cases buying one food and feeding it to all of your different pets is not the best option. As you can see it is pretty easy to care for turtles if you have the right tools and information. You can also purchase books that teach you all the basics of how to care for turtles.

For great turtle care advice, turtle food recommendation http://www.petturtlecare.net/how-to-care-for-turtles-as-pets.html or turtle health issues visit us at http://www.petturtlecare.net/

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Cat Spraying

Many people don't want to have a cat because they are afraid of cats marking their territory. You have to know that cats don't spray because they are malicious or wants to irritate you. It's their natural behavior. Spraying is territorial and can also be stress related. Neutering or spaying a kitten at an early age can prevent spraying problems in the future. Your vet will advise you on the best age to neuter your kitten.

Spraying is type of communication for cats, the mark some territory as their own. Sprayed cat urine con
ains pheromones which are like fingerprints, they are unique for every cat. Sometimes spraying is an invitation to love for other cats (they are easily attracted by the odor of urine). In many cases cats sprays also because of stress.

Although, for cats it's completely normal to mark their territory, the smell of urine is awful for people. The most effective method is to neuter or spay your cat. Most cats stop spraying immediately or after a short period of time. It's the best to do it as soon as possible but you should visit your vet because neuter or spaying time is individual for every cat.

What if you don't want to do it? You can use special pheromones in spray (ask your vet) or if your cat spray only in one specific place try to keep your cat away from that place and watch if he starts to spray somewhere else or not. If not, your problem is solved.

If you have some other pets try to separate them from your cat because it can be cause of the problem. Even if your neighbour has a pet and your cat can see it, try to block the view of it.

Maybe there is some other uncommon problem with your cat, if you are not sure visit the vet and ask him for advice.

Now, some useful tip, how to remove the odor. First wash the surface with some laundry detergent with enzymes, than mix half of white vinegar with half of water and spray the place to discourage cat from spraying the same place again.

In conclusion, spraying is normal for cats and it's their way of communication. If you want your cat to stop doing it you have to neuter or spay your cat. If you don't want do it you can buy some special drugs or pheromones.

If you want to know more, get some free stuff and improve your knowledge about cat spraying visit http://catobediencetraining.blogspot.com/ You will find there many articles and free stuff

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The Ojos Azules Cat

Ojos Azules is a domestic cat breed. It is made striking by its brilliant blue eyes.

One of the most recent feline breeds, Ojos Azules is a very pretty cat. Little is understood about the origin of this cat except for the fact that it was first reported in New Mexico in the mid nineteen eighties. The cat is known for its dazzling bright blue eyes. In fact the name Ojos Azules has been taken from Spanish words meaning 'blue eyes'. The unique eye color of Ojos Azules is a result of a genetic mutation. It is
a very rare and pretty cat and exists in hands of limited breeders worldwide. It is not widely recognized at the moment and is still looking for global acceptance as a distinguished breed.

Ojos Azules is a cat of medium build. Head is triangular in shape with big round eyes and angular muzzle. Coat is short, silky and occurs in a variety of colors and patterns. Prior to the appearance of Ojos Azules, blue eyes were seen only in white or Siamese cats. However, these pretty felids display blue eyes in all types of fur presentations. In fact the first Ojos Azules in record - the founding member of the breed - was a tortie.

The mutant gene responsible for the Opus Azules' eyes is dominant in character. If present in homozygous (paired) form, it leads to skull defects and mortality in newborns. Breeders therefore outcross these cats to other breeds, often domestic short and longhairs, in order to maintain healthy litters. The gene has proved to be harmless if existing in heterozygous formation.

Not much is known about the overall behavior and personality of Opus Azules owing to their rarity. Only a handful of the cats existed a decade or so ago. Furthermore their development was halted when it became clear that the 'blue eye gene' was potentially fatal. It took a period of dedicated genetic analysis to resume the breed's development. Therefore little conclusive data exists on the long term health, temperament and behavioral profile of these pretty cats.

About the Author The author is a blogger about cats and an expert on Ojos Azules cat.


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My Cat Is Urinating Often - What Are The Causes?

A cat with frequent urination problems more than likely has a urinary tract infection (UTI). An infection in the urinary tract can spread to the kidneys making it a life threatening situation. Please be sure and follow up with your veterinarian.

When people ask me "Why is my cat urinating often?" I ask them;

How much urine does he produce?
Is he in pain?
Is there blood in his urine?
Does his urine smell terrible?
Is he licking his genitals repeatedly?
Has he lost his appetite?
Does he seem letha
gic?
Does he avoid the litter box?

If your cat frequent urination problem is not an infection it could be from bladder stones blocking the flow of urine. It could be from a disease; and the only way to find out is to make an appointment with the vet and have her checked out thoroughly. If no infection or disease is present she may just need and little assistance to boost her immunity.

People have had excellent results with homeopathic supplements that are safe with absolutely no side effects. If you cat is urinating often these supplements might be all your feline friend needs in answer to your question "Why is my cat is urinating often?

Find a supplement that is targeted just for urinary tract problems. These natural supplements will assist your feline friend's immune system giving her the ability to fight any bacteria that might enter the urinary tract. Even humans have had success with certain vitamins and homeopathic remedies that are targeted for specific purposes, such as urinary tract infections.

Rebecca Shelly has been studying alternative health conditions for pets for many years. She is a regular contributor to http://www.pet-natural-cures.com a site discussing some of the most promising natural treatments for pet health on the market today

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Buying A Horse - The Pre-purchase Exam

You've done the searching, you've combed the classifieds, you've test ridden several horses and you've settled on THE ONE. What do you need to do now? Write the seller a check, load up and head down the road? You can... but depending on what you want to do with the horse, your level of long term commitment to the horse and your goals for the horse, a pre-purchase exam might be money well spent.

What is a pre-purchase exam? A pre-purchase exam is a series of tests performed by an equine veterinarian that determines the h
rse's current soundness and health and can identify problems that might affect future soundness. There are few things more heartbreaking than having your perfect horse go lame or have some other problem that turns him from your best riding companion in to a lawn ornament. A pre-purchase exam is best performed on a potential purchase prior to falling completely in love with the horse and deciding that you can't live without him. The pre-purchase exam is requested by the buyer, the buyer contacts a veterinarian of their choosing and the buyer is responsible for all costs incurred from the exam. It is usually recommended that the buyer select a veterinarian that is not the seller's usual veterinarian, both to eliminate conflict of interest and to not put the veterinarian in an awkward position of potentially reporting negative results which might cause the sale to fall through for his client.

When your veterinarian shows up to perform the pre-purchase exam, the first thing he or she should ask is what your intended purpose is for this horse. What do you want to do with him? Are you looking for a trail horse that will go on leisurely rides 2 or 3 days a week? Or is your ultimate goal with this horse to be a high end competitor in your sport of choice? A good veterinarian will take this information in to account when evaluating a horse for you and this information will influence the final report made on this horse.

There are three main types of pre-purchase exams: a basic pre-purchase, a full pre-purchase and a breeding soundness exam A basic pre-purchase exam entails a complete physical exam and lameness exam. A full pre-purchase typically includes x-rays and often other diagnostic measures such as a routine blood panel. Breeding soundness exams are performed on animals intended to be used as breeding stock and are often performed in conjunction with a basic or full pre-purchase exam.

In a basic pre-purchase exam, the veterinarian will listen to the horse's heart, lungs and gut sounds. He'll examine the horse's eyes, dentition (both the condition that the horse's teeth are in and how well the horse's teeth align), legs, joints and overall conformation and condition. He'll likely ascertain the horse's health history, such as whether or not the horse has had problems with colic or lameness in the past and whether or not the horse is current on his vaccinations and deworming. The veterinarian will then ask to see the horse move, both at the walk (in hand) and at the trot (usually on a lunge line). He is looking to see how well the horse tracks and whether the horse wings, paddles or interferes when he is in motion (signs that can indicate a conformational issue and can lead to unsoundness). He'll also be looking for obvious or subtle signs of lameness. The next set of tests will involve using hoof testers on the horse's hooves to apply pressure to very specific parts of the hoof and internal structures. Hoof testers can find signs of laminitis, stone bruises, navicular disease and other problems that may lead to the need for a career chance for the horse.

Once the horse has passed these tests, the veterinarian will move on to flexion tests. In a flexion test, the veterinarian will hold the horse's leg in a flexed position, focusing on each individual joint or series of joints (hock and stifle for example) for about 60 seconds at a time. He'll then ask the handler to trot the horse off in a straight line. The veterinarian is looking for signs of lameness following the flexion that can indicate an issue that requires further diagnostics such as x-rays or nerve blocks. It is not uncommon for a veterinarian to advise the buyer not to proceed with a horse that cannot pass his flexion tests as it often can indicate the presence of bony changes or arthritis.

A full pre-purchase exam has the same elements as a basic pre-purchase but also includes diagnostic radiographs (x-rays) of at least the front and rear fetlocks, front feet and hocks. Depending on the intended use of the horse, some practitioners will recommend radiographs of the stifles and knees as well. These x-rays will allow the veterinarian to look for bony changes such as arthritis, bone chips, high and low ringbone, navicular syndrome and OCD lesions that can all affect the horse's performance and lead to future unsoundness. A full pre-purchase exam may also include bloodwork to rule out metabolic disease, thyroid problems or the use of masking drugs which may make the horse appear sound or sane at the time of the pre-purchase exam.

A breeding soundness exam is requested on a mare or stallion whose intended purpose is that of a breeding animal. For a mare, the veterinarian will perform a rectal palpation and ultrasound to make sure the uterus and ovaries are of normal size, consistency and free from any abnormalities. A vaginal exam will ensure that the mare has a normal cervical seal and is free from scarring or tears. The veterinarian will also look at the mare's perineal conformation (whether her vulva is tipped in relation to the anus) and check her udders. Stallions will have their semen collected and evaluated, testicles measured and palpated and behavior noted.

Many times when a buyer is having a pre-purchase exam done on a horse, the question they are dying to ask is, "Well, did he pass or fail?". In reality, the veterinarian is not there to "pass" or "fail" the horse and can only point out all abnormalities and potential causes for concern. Veterinarians don't have a crystal ball and they do not have the ability to predict a horse's future soundness; they can only report on what they see on that day. It is up to you, the buyer, to make the final decision on whether or not you can live with his findings.

Julia A. Patton, owner of Aviance Arabians in Loveland, Colorado (http://www.AvianceArabians.com), a successful breeding a sales barn, Julie has been breeding horses for over ten years. The long time breeding manager at a 350+ head Arabian horse farm, Julie brings current, hands on knowledge in the areas of breeding horses from stallion collection to foaling and foal handling. She also spent several years at Colorado State University as a project manager working on reproductive safety trials for pharmaceutical companies. From there, she went to Florida to set up an embryo transfer and frozen semen station for a veterinary practice in Ocala. Now the resident horse expert at http://www.horsesportscentral.com, Julie shares her passion for horses, horse sales and breeding in articles, blogs and posts

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Ten Tips for Cats Who Are Forced to Relocate With Their Owners

When you're on the move, the cats may have something to say about the process.

1. If you sense your owner plans to move, be on your best behavior. Revive those terminally cute poses you used to get yourself adopted. Let your owner sleep past 5 AM. Keep your paws out of your owner's hair. Use the litterbox religiously. If you must throw up, head for the bathroom and skip the windowsills. You do not want your owner to entertain thoughts like, "I don't want to ruin the beautiful floors in our new home,"
   or, "You know, it's really hard to rent an apartment when you have a cat."
2. Here's a great game. Jump into an empty box, stick your head out and hold the pose while your owner runs around looking for a camera. As soon as she appears, finger on snap button, turn around and point your tail at the camera. You'll learn some new cuss words, guaranteed.
3. The arrival of the moving van is your cue to hide. You can have lots of fun with this one. Your owner will run around frantically, cursing the movers: "You idiots! You left the door open! Now little Furball is gone forever!" After they've wasted an hour running around the neighborhood, appear out of nowhere and begin to wash. When they shriek, "Oh there she is!" and try to hug you, summon an aloof glare and wash your face again. Bonus tip: If you really want to freak them out, hide in your cat carrier.
4. As you begin your twelve-hour drive, remember that your owners would rather listen to your yowling than to the latest tapes or the local weather and news. Keep it up!
5. Demand a sandbox break as soon as your owner begins driving on a road where it is absolutely impossible to pull over. A narrow bridge with bumper-to-bumper traffic is a good choice.
6. Motel etiquette calls for you to sit in the window, looking absolutely adorable. Encourage passers-by to tap on the glass at all hours, especially if your owner has forgotten to draw the curtains. If you suspect your owners snuck you in past the desk clerk, begin yowling as soon as they try to move you to a more secluded spot.
7. When it's time to hit the road at 6 AM, you don't want to be found. If you can position yourself under the queensize bed, out of reach of your owner's arms, you can delay everyone's travel plans for a good half hour. The award for the most creative hiding place goes to the feline who wedged herself between mattress cover and springs. Caution: This only works if your owner really adores you. If you can't be found in twenty minutes, you might be looking for a new home.
8. Insist on being present when boxes are unpacked. Jump into each box to make sure the contents arrived safely. If your owners lock you into the bathroom "so kitty can't escape," use the opportunity to practice your singing. The movers need entertainment, too.
9. Demand to test each windowsill of the new home. If you still have claws, test the curtains to see if they'll hold your weight. Fifteen pounds? Should be no problem. Regardless, those miniblinds offer limitless opportunities for new versions of torture-the-owner. How many blinds can you bend? How about breaking off a little hole for your head to peek through? Cute.
10. Encourage your owner to get a dog. You may never have to move again. "Honey, we can't move. We could never afford another place where Spot could have a yard."

About the Author Cathy Goodwin, Ph.D. author, career consultant, speaker http://www.movinglady.com If you're a human embarking on a major move, defuse the emotional stress with Making the Big Move: How to transform relocation into a creative life transition. http://www.movinglady.com/bigmove.html

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Why "Doggie Breath" is nothing to joke about.

Your dogs health is important to you. You show him how important by keeping him well fed and groomed, making sure he gets plenty of exercise and providing a collection of fun, safe toys for his entertainment. You don't skimp on the quality of his food. And to reward good boys and girls, there are always lots of delicious treats in the cupboard.

But if he has bad breath, you could be overlooking a serious problem with your dogs health.

"Dog Breath" is such a common condition that we make jokes about it. Sometimes
e even tease our human "friends" using "dog breath" in play-ground style name-calling ( although hopefully this is limited to teenage boys.) And I know many pet owners who comment that they love their dog or cat like a child, but just can't stand the smell of the animal's breath! Well, guess what? "Dog Breath" isn't normal.
It's estimated that 80 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats over the age of three suffer from the periodontal disease — a serious deterioration of the gums and supporting bones of the teeth. Yes, it's periodontal disease that's responsible for "dog breath". But the problem doesn't confine itself to your furry baby's mouth. It's an infection, and the tiny creatures responsible for it can break loose and enter the bloodstream. Once they do, they can infect vital organs such as the liver and kidneys, endangering your dogs health by causing a far more serious illness.The best way to insure your dogs health, especially where periodontal disease is concerned, is with prevention. It can make all the difference. 

Periodontal disease begins as gingivitis, which is virtually harmless and completely treatable. If allowed to move to the next stage--Periodontitis-- it can be stopped, but not cured. And the worse it gets, the faster it progresses. This applies to all animals, two legged and four legged alike. Think of a car parked at the top of a hill. The emergency break is released, and the car begins to roll downhill. Now, if you hit the breaks right away, no harm done. But the farther the car rolls the faster it goes, and the more momentum it builds. It gets harder and harder to stop it. By the time it's halfway down the hill, you could be headed for disaster!
You can maintain your dogs health nicely with proper home care. But, like the rolling car, if disease is already present, stopping and controlling it is a bigger job.

Prevention involves, above all, regular veterinary checkups and professional cleanings beginning early in your dog or cat's life. I'll show you how you can help maintain oral health at home, but it's impossible to do a thorough cleaning on an animal who's awake. Trust me on this. It's hard enough to do a thorough job with a cooperative human patient. When we're talking about animals who don't understand what we're doing or why, forget about it.

Most veterinarians recommend annual cleanings, but more frequent or involved treatment may be needed depending on your animal's condition. Please, no matter what you're doing at home, follow the vet's recommendations. As for your part, introduce your dog or cat to the idea of having his teeth brushed as early as possible. I know, it's not easy, and it takes time and daily conditioning to get your little guy or gal used to it. But your dogs health is worth it!

So how do you prevent the most common of threats to your dogs health? Brush her teeth, of course! Every day. Just like you would your own (twice a day for you, and floss too!!). This isn't easy, but it can become an expected part of your dog's routine if you do it right. Here are some suggestions:

Start when your dog is a puppy. The earlier the better.

At first, you just want her to get used to you handling her head and looking inside her mouth. Practice lifting up her lips and looking at her teeth and gums--front, back and both sides of her mouth.

Now begin gently touching the gum tissue with your finger and rub along her gums and teeth as if your finger were a toothbrush. Let her get used to the sensation. This is exactly the way you would introduce a human baby to brushing, beginning with just her gums. Even before there are teeth, there are harmful bacteria. So don't worry about a tiny puppy who doesn't have a full set of teeth yet--rub her gums, swab out her little mouth with your finger, and get her used the this kind of contact from her owner.

Your next step is to wrap gauze or a soft washcloth around your finger and rub the gums on both the outer and inner surfaces of the teeth.

Finally, introduce a tooth brush in one small area. As your dog gets used to the brush, you will be able to use it in place of the gauze or washcloth. Remember to brush the inside surfaces!

A little brushing a day, beginning with the first step and working your way up gradually, will eventually lead to a one to two minute session. Your dog will learn that it doesn't hurt and that she gets a couple of minutes of your undivided attention every day. It generally takes 8 to 16 weeks to get there, but in the end your dog will accept brushing as part of her daily routine.

If a little brushing is done every day at a set time, eventually your pet gets used to it, and some will even look forward to it. It will take most pet owners from 8-16 weeks until the pet accepts it readily. Now the pet realizes it doesn't hurt and that it will get 1-2 minutes of your undivided attention. Your pet enjoys your attention, and will eventually wait patiently for you to brush his teeth.
There's a toothbrush with three heads that will allow you to brush all three surface of the tooth at one time, which makes life a lot easier for both of you! It also has nice, soft bristles so you won't harm your pet's delicate gum tissue.

There are also products that can be rubbed on the gums and added to the drinking water to help reduce bacteria in an animal's mouth and promote the dogs health and healing. Bad breath is actually a by-product of the bacteria that populate the mouth. They break down proteins and carbohydrates from your dog or cat's diet, and produce something called "volatile sulfur compounds", or VSC's. It's the sulfur that make the breath smell extra special!

Certain dental products have an agent that neutralizes the VSC's. Many owners have commented that their cat or dog seems to like the drinking water better when these products are added--even though they have no flavor! And there's a gel available that, although formulated for the gums, can be very soothing for skin conditions, cuts, and surgical wounds thanks to the Aloe Vera it contains.

The best oral care products work without the use of fragrances and flavors, which entice human consumers, but don't benefit your cat or dogs health in any way! 

I was a practicing dentist for over 20 years, and I saw a lot of human patients who had terrible breath (and periodontal disease) and weren't even aware of it. People don't like to tell each other about bad breath. Even the dentist has to be delicate with this piece of bad news.

At least when dealing with a pet, you don't have to worry about social embarrassment in order to address your dogs health problem! Don't be shy, get in there and do something about it. Not only can your dog get rid of her breath odor, but she could even live 2 to 5 years longer as a result. And you'll be able to get close again, without holding your breath.
About the Author ฉ Copyright 2004 Carolyn Schweitzer DDS. Dr. Schweitzer was a family dentist for 20 years and is now owner and editor of several websites. You can learn more about specific dental care products by visiting her website at http://www.great-dog-gift.com/dogs_health.html#LocationOXY


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