How Do You Take Care Of Ferrets?

Perhaps you're thinking about buying a ferret, or perhaps you already have one. Either way, you may be wondering how to take care of ferrets, so you can make sure your ferret has the best life possible. Care of ferrets is simple but you need to have the right information, or you're just wasting your time.

Step one to learn how to take care of ferrets is to begin researching. Avoid the thousands of websites full of junky, useless information and go to a credible source to learn how to take care of ferrets. No point learning info
mation that doesn't work or is unhelpful.

While you're learning about how to take care of ferrets, have your children or friends learn too. They can research more than care of ferrets and maybe find some tips on teaching or training them. Again, let me mention, a credible resource that is specific to ferrets will cover how to care for ferrets and much more.

The care of ferrets goes beyond diet and training to use a litter pan. There are things to do when they become sick, things to do so the litter pan isn't so messy and ways to teach and train, all the while taking great care of ferrets.

All animals have unique qualities and ferrets are no different, so taking the time to learn how to take care of ferrets should include learning more then the basics. If you know anyone who has a pet ferret, they might be a good resource. However, friends and veterinarians, while helpful, can't answer every possible question - a good guide can though.

So as you progress on your journey of learning how to take care of ferrets, keep in mind a few things. First, make sure you're learning from a credible source, understand care of ferrets is more then feeding them, and that, most importantly, your ferret will benefit from the great care you're giving them.

Martin B. Kutcher is a Pets expert and director of CaringForYourPetsInfo.Com. Martin provides honest information and advice on things like Ferret Training and much more

Read more!

The history of Rottweilers

The history of rottweilers is rich one. Ranging from the Roman Empire to German butchers to cattle hearders and guard dogs. Through the years it has gained reputation for its great strength and intelligence.

Rottweilers have a history that goes way back through times. There are as with most different breeds, different versions of their past. Some claim the rottweiler is entirely German developed by butchers. Others say it is a descendent from the Bouvier. Yet others tell the story as we tell it below.

Lets ret
rn to the time of the great Roman Empire where they controlled large portions of land. In Germany there was a small market town called Rottweil, hence the name rottweiler. In these times the legions got their supply of meat by having it mobile, meaning they brought their cattle with them.

The assistance of working dogs was needed to herd the cattle and this is where the rottweilers come in to business. One travel route was through the town Wurttemberg and on to the market town of Rottweil mentioned above. This region became an imporant cattle area and here the cattle dogs really proved their worth. In these times the rottweilers were thought to be called Rover dogs and they also carried wood and other products to the market.

Not only did the rottweilers herd the cattle, they also protected it from anyone trying to steal some of them. It took quite some courage to even try to bypass this strong and intelligent dog. They did service also by guarding supply dumps and were the camp dogs of preference.

There is a painting by flemish painter Peter Paul Reubens (1577-1640) that depicts a dog biting a wof in the back. This dog carries strong reassemblences with rottweilers.

In the years to follow the breed started to decline though and it went so far that in the year of 1900 there was only one female dog left in the town of Rottweil. Then in the start of the 20th century came the First World War. This increased the demand for police dogs and the best dogs that could be found for this purpose was of course the rottweiler. As demand increased the breed flourished and again become well known for its strength, intelligence and ability to be well trained.

After those days the rottweiler also became very popular with dog owners. In 1935 the breed was recognized officialy by the American Kennel Club. A year later they were exhibited in Britain. It was widely used again as a guard dog during the second world war.

Through the years the rottweilers have gained a proven reputation as the best and most efficient guard dogs there are.

About the Author

Kari Eriksson is an infopreneur and a dog lover since many years. Lately Rottweilers have become a special interest and he operates The Rottweiler Directory at http://www.rottweilerdirectory.com alongsides with http://www.rottweilers-online.com where you can find articles, links and useful resources.

Read more!

Dogs and Bull Frogs

The Saint Francis Effect Extends To Every Day Life On Blue heron Farm

Friend Bull Frog has come to live with us in the basement.

This is the height of cricket season, and crickets live in abundance here on Blue Heron Farm.

Bull Froggy loves crickets.

S/he lives under an under water rock.

When we plop the cricket into the water, Bull Froggy, with the speed that the eye can see only briefly, zips and splashes and the cricket is gone.

What a show!

The dogs are first to line up for this natura
entertainment and wonder.

Froggy seems to in-joy being the center of such gleeful delight!

This reminds me of the Saw-Whet Owl we rescued after she crashed into our windshield, crossing the Gettysburg Battle Field.

Tom's Aunt Hilda was dying and we were traveling to her to offer our support.

We later found out that the Saw-Whet migratory pattern centers right there and was in place long before the Battle itself.

We took her home and nursed her back to good health, and she lived in the barn that entire winter.

A small owl of all types of woodlands, the Northern Saw-whet Owl can be found roosting in winter in small, dense conifer trees, sometimes even in parks and gardens. Its defense upon discovery is to sit still and not fly, leading people to perceive them as "tame."

The main prey items of the Northern Saw-whet Owl are mice, and especially deer mice of the genus Peromyscus. Adult mice usually are eaten in pieces in two different meals. One owl was found dead after apparently trying to swallow a large mouse whole.

The female Northern Saw-whet Owl does the incubation and brooding. The male brings all her food while she is incubating. She leaves the eggs for only one or two short trips each night, to defecate and cough up a pellet.

While the female Saw-Whet broods her nestlings, she keeps the nest cavity very clean. But, when the young are about 18 days old, she starts spending the night in another hole, and then the dirt starts to accumulate. When the young owls leave the nest after another ten days to two weeks, the nest cavity has a thick layer of feces, pellets, and rotting prey parts.

The food of our Saw-Whet consisted of a mouse or two each day. We'd carefully place the rodent into a coat pocket before walking quietly into her territory.

She was waiting for us.

Like the speed of bewitching magic, she's swoop and take that mouse out of pocket and return to her perch on a high barn beam, bowing each time with wide alert eyes.

A thank you.

A message of gratitude.

The day Tom's Aunt Hilda passed, our Saw-Whet buried herself alive in the corner of the barn.

Saw-Whet was a messenger of the after-life worlds, calling to all of us if we listen.

Bull Froggy reminds me of the owl, of the dogs, of the river where she will ultimately make her way back, to the depths of worlds made more mysterious by the unseen depths of moving water.

About the Author -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--=-=- Kate Loving Shenk is a writer, healer, musician and the creator of the e-book called "Transform Your Nursing Career and Discover Your Calling and Destiny." Click here to order the e-book: http://www.nursingcareertransformation.com Check Out Kate's Blog: http://www.nursehealers.typepad.com http://www.katelovingshenk.com/blog -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Read more!

Finding The Right Pet Stroller For Your Boxer Dog

No need to leave your dog behind. Find comfort and ease strolling with your dog with the help of pet strollers. Find out the things to consider when purchasing...

Now that you have decided to get a stroller for your Boxer dog, the next step towards a relaxing, comfortable and safe trip is to purchase one. But before you finally dash to the counter and pay for your chosen pet stroller, make sure that the one you chose is appropriate for your dog and suit the activities you and your dog will be doing. Below are the few things
o consider when purchasing a dog stroller.

- Pet stroller capacity is one of the most important factors to consider when purchasing a stroller intended for your Boxer dog. Lucky if you have a small dog, pet stroller capacity is not an issue. However, if you have a large pet that weighs more than 25 lbs., make sure that the pet stroller you purchased can carry the weight of your pet.

- The functionality is another factor to consider. You may want or need to transport your pet by hand in carriers so it is a better idea to choose a pet stroller with detachable carriers that separate from stroller frame.

- There are several types of pet stroller. If you plan on jogging with your pet, then you need a stroller specifically designed for jogging. This type of stroller provides maximum stability. Other strollers are designed for long distance trips and some with detachable carriers. Choose which one best suits your needs.

- A pet stroller should have a lot of storage space especially if you are planning to take your pet on long journeys. Some strollers have pouches, pockets or trays used for storing things like pet treats, water bottles, keys and other. Consider this when purchasing.

- Naturally, pet stroller price varies based on the type, functionality and design. The price however, is not a guarantee that you will be getting everything that you need. Choose a good quality one and keep an eye on imitation strollers for they have already started showing up on market. Look for genuine and good quality brands to ensure safety and prevent wasting your money. When purchasing, consider also the shipping charges and shipment. Read and understand return policies to find out if the policy is fair.

With all the variety of pet strollers to choose from, be sure to choose carefully. Remember that your dog's safety is at risk so choose carefully.

About the Author Richard Cussons writes articles about Boxer dog. Visit boxersavvy.com and learn more about Boxer dog training.

Read more!

How To Tips To Help Your Pets Avoid Holiday Hazards

As we look forward to the many gatherings of family and friends during the holidays, we need to keep a few points in mind in order to keep our pets safe and healthy. Pet owners need to be aware that what may be considered harmless to humans, in the form of extra rich foods and decorations, may pose a serious health risk to our beloved family pet members.

Remember, your pets are not garbage disposals for any holiday leftover. If  your dog/cat swallows poultry bones, they can splinter and cause blockages. If your pet is used to having le
t overs, make sure they get meats without rich sauces or spices. It is always a good idea to give them fresh vegetables. Also, candy and sugar may give your pet diarrhea or other intestinal problems. This is not what you want to see at any time of the year! Older animals have more delicate systems and nutritional requirements. Do not give your pet chocolates--chocolate is POISONOUS. Some other problem foods for our pets: any alcoholic beverages, coffee grounds, espresso beans, moldy or spoiled foods, onions or onion powder, salt or yeast dough, raisins and grapes.

Most animals do not like change. If you are a cat owner, then you already know that cats are creatures of habit. They definitely do not like any kind of change in their daily routine, so if you move your furniture around for a large gathering, this disruption could cause your kitty to stop using the litter box. Crowds, noise and holiday festivities can frighten our animals. If they do not handle noise or crowds around, then give them a safe, quiet place they can retreat to until everything settles down. 

Any exposed wiring might look tasty to a puppy or kitten that loves to chew on things. Try to hide the wiring and tape down any exposed, loose wires to the baseboards. Holiday plants are another concern. Poinsettias, mistletoe, ivy, holly berries, bittersweet can all be poisonous or fatal if eaten. This is important to remember if you have small children in the house, also. 

Cats and dogs love to romp around in the discarded wrapping papers and boxes. Be sure to cut away the handles on the shopping bags, as small dogs and cats could easily choke on them. Also, keep aluminum foil away from your pets. If they swallow any bits of this, it can cause intestinal blockage and vomiting.

If you decorate a traditional Christmas tree, be sure to anchor it to the floor, so that if your cat decides to go climbing, he doesn't topple it over. You might consider decorating with animal friendly ornaments. Baking cookie ornaments that your dog or cat could eat can be fun. Do not use raisins to decorate the cookies, or if you do not have the time to bake, then decorate with small pet toys. These can be purchased all year with this thought in mind, at  many pet stores. Then you will be ready,and you will not have to worry about the safety of your pets, as glass ornaments can shatter in your pets mouth, cutting the tissues and causing an emergency visit to the veterinary hospital. It is easier and less expensive to protect your pet.

Believe it or not, some dogs and cats drink water from the Christmas tree stand. Do not allow this, as this water may contain fertilizers and bacteria which may lead to vomiting and diarrhea. Keep a tree skirt or covering around the bottom of the tree. 

This has been reported many times, but it bears repeating. Antifreeze is very dangerous. It has a very pleasant taste, but it contains ethylene glycol, which can cause rapid and permanent kidney damage to your pet if he swallows even a tiny amount. One teaspoon can be deadly for an average sized cat, which can swallow it just by walking thru antifreeze puddles and then cleaning his paws. Four teaspoons can be dangerous to a 10 pound dog if he just laps it up off the garage floor. 

It is always wise to inspect your home to make sure that it is safe for all who live there. Remember, many of these tips apply to the safety of small children, as they are usually playing with their pets. Using common sense will help to keep the family out of the hospital emergency room or the veterinary hospital.    

For more articles, information and news on dogs,dog health and other issues pertaining to dogs read Sparrow Darling's site http://www.dogsandothercompanions.com

Read more!

Feline Asthma And Your Cat

Feline Asthma is a respiratory condition that involves inflammation and excess mucous build-up in the airways. Muscles spasm and cause constriction of the airway, resulting in respiratory distress. Feline Asthma shares some characteristics with asthma in humans, including symptoms.

Signs of Feline Asthma may be as mild as an occasional soft cough and/or a wheeze. At times it may seem as though your cat is trying unsuccessfully to bring up a hairball. In extreme and chronic cases, one might notice a persistent cough along with labored,
pen-mouth, harsh breathing. At this point, an asthma 'attack' could culminate in a life-threatening crisis.

There are a number of treatment options which might include oral medications, inhalers similar to those used in human medicine, and nebulizers. These serve to help with daily prevention and also manage more severe episodes as they occur by reducing inflammation and helping to relax the muscles of the airway.

Even though the exact causes of Feline Asthma are unknown, it is believed that allergies could play a part. In addition to medical management, it may help to watch for possible triggers in the environment. Consider whether your litter is low-dust and unscented. If your cat has allergies to grains, corn and wheat based litters may pose a problem as well. Be careful when using household products such as aerosols, cleaners and polishes. Reduce exposure to vapors from garages, work areas, and special projects. Vacuum frequently and wash bedding often to help reduce dust mites. Watch for areas where mildew and mold may build up. If you notice seasonal occurrences, be mindful of open doors and windows. Look for reactions in stressful situations and limit exercise when appropriate. You may even want to discuss your cat's diet with your Veterinarian.

It is beneficial to keep a detailed journal of episodes. Include any observations of your cat's behavior and activity level leading up to an event, indoor and outdoor temperatures, weather conditions, and any household activities such as vacuuming and cleaning or projects using paints or chemicals. Note any changes in the diet you offer, bedding, and with the brand of litter you use. It is especially helpful to describe the signs you are seeing. Developing a scale where you can measure the severity of attacks and the effectiveness of any treatments you are using will help to add a little bit of objectivity. In doing this, you'll have an invaluable resource for your veterinarian and a possible means of anticipating problems.

In case of an attack be certain that you have your emergency supply of medications on hand at all times because an episode can occur with little warning. Since an already panicked cat will sense your anxiety, try to remain as calm as possible. Sometimes with mild episodes, just simply talking quietly and petting lightly and gently can help settle breathing. Be sure that you don't hover too closely. Holding or wrapping in towels or blankets will only result in increasing the sense that one is suffocating. Allow for a short bit of time to pass after giving oral medications or using a rescue inhaler or nebulizer. This gives you an opportunity to see if the treatment has been effective and also helps you to calmly prepare for the next step if more aggressive treatment is needed.

Many other medical conditions including infection, heart worms, foreign bodies, lung worms, cancer, and heart disease may mimic Feline Asthma, therefore it is vital for you to take your cat to your veterinarian for a thorough exam and medical work-up. Feline Asthma is typically diagnosed through clinical presentation, radiographs (x-rays) and lab work. Once diagnosed, your veterinarian will work with you to determine the optimal approach to treating your cat.

Initially, the diagnosis and management of Feline Asthma can be a frustrating and unnerving process, but if you suspect that your cat has this disease don't ignore the signs. Untreated, this can be a very uncomfortable and potentially life threatening condition for your cat to live with.

Copyright ฉ 2008 Renee L. Austin/Whimsy Cats LLC All rights reserved
This article may be reproduced in its original format and with the author's name and contact information.

For more information about the author, or to find out more about feline health visit http://www.whimsycats.com.

Renee L. Austin is the founder of Whimsy Cats, a specialized home care business for cats with chronic medical conditions and special needs. She also provides consulting services for veterinary practices. For more information visit http://www.whimsycats.com

Read more!

The Myth of 100% Complete Pet Food

Every day people subject their loved animals to repetitious monotony that they would never allow for themselves, and yet, unthinkingly pass their actions off as beneficial for their pets.

Every day, people by the millions pour food from a package into their pet's bowl. Day in and day out, meal after meal, pets get the same fare. This strange phenomenon is widely practiced by loving pet owners who believe they are doing the right thing.  

Why? Certainly because it is convenient, but also because t
e labels state that such foods are "complete and balanced," "100% complete," or that they have passed various analytical and feeding test standards. Furthermore, manufacturers, and even veterinarians, counsel pet owners about not feeding other foods, such as table scraps, because of the danger of unbalancing these modern processed nutritional marvels. The power of the message is so great that pet owners en masse do every day to their pets what they would never do to themselves or their children – force-feed the same processed food at every meal. 

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/premium_food.jpg 

Think about it. Our world is complex beyond comprehension. It is not only largely unknown, it is unknowable in the "complete" sense. In order for nutritionists and manufacturers to produce a "100% complete and balanced" pet food, they must first know 100% about nutrition. However, nutrition is not a completed science. It is, in fact, an aggregate science, which is based upon other sciences, such as chemistry, physics, and biology. But since no scientist would argue that everything is known in chemistry, or physics, or biology, how can nutritionists claim to know everything there is to know about nutrition, which is based upon these sciences? This is the logical absurdity of the "100% complete and balanced" diet claim. It is the reason a similar venture to feed babies a "100% complete" formula turned out to be a health disaster.   

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/nutrition_pillars.jpg 

In that instance, after sufficient disease and death resulted from attempting to retire the human breast to a mere appendage of adornment, government stepped in and controlled the commercial hype. Now doctors, nurses and purveyors of baby formulas cannot say these products are complete or that they are equal to or superior to breast-feeding. Good for the regulators. (Although they should have been proactive and prevented the disaster before it ever took root, not have merely stepped in after enough deaths accrued.) 

Even with that lesson as a dire warning, pet food regulators turn a blind eye. Instead of preventing pet food producers from claiming a processed food concoction is 100% complete, they in effect promote the death and disease-dealing specious claim by setting bogus standards that supposedly justify and authenticate the claim. They legitimize sloppy science in order to win consumer confidence. All a manufacturer has to do is guarantee that their percentage of protein, fat and the like meets National Research Council standards. In the alternative, manufacturers can do feeding trials on caged laboratory animals for a few weeks, measure cursory blood parameters, and monitor growth and weight – as if survival after a few weeks on a food has anything to do with achieving optimal health and long life! 

Down the primrose path millions of trusting pet owners go while at the same time unknowingly condemning their pets to terrible degenerative diseases. Pet food regulators then spend the majority of their time harassing pet food companies with picayune requirements about terminology on packaging and where certain words must be placed on labels. In this regard manufacturers must contend with the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture), FDA (Food and Drug Administration), AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials), and 50 State feed regulatory agencies. All for naught. It's like the entire police force busying themselves ticketing people for jaywalking while turning a blind eye to the murder and rape going on in the alleys. 

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/regulatory.jpg 

Claiming that anything is 100% is like claiming perfection, total knowledge, and absolute truth. Has pet nutrition really advanced that far? Does a chemist make such a claim? A physicist? Doctor? Professor? Did Einstein, Bohr, Pasteur, Aristotle, Plato, or any of the greatest minds in human history make such claims? No. Has the science of pet nutrition advanced to the point where everything is known about the physiology, digestion and biochemistry of animals, or that everything is known about their food?  Certainly not.

The fact of the matter is that the "100% complete" claim is actually "100% complete" guesswork. At best, one could say that such a claim is the firm possibility of a definite maybe. 

Each time regulatory agencies convene to decide how much of which nutrients comprise "100% completeness," debate always ensues and standards usually change. This not only proves that what they claimed before was not "100% complete," but this should also make us highly suspicious about what they now claim to be "100% complete." 

Moreover, consider that in order to determine the minimum requirement for a certain nutrient – say protein – all other nutrients used in the feeding trials must be adequate and standardized. Otherwise, if vitamin E, for example, is in excess or is deficient in the basal diet, how would one know if the results of the study were because of the effects of protein or due to something amiss with the level of vitamin E? 

If the minimum requirements for all 26+ essential nutrients were all set and absolutely etched in stone, that would be one thing. But they aren't. They are constantly changing. This means each time any nutrient requirement is changed, all test results for all other nutrients using the wrong minimum for this nutrient would then be invalid. Most nutritionists simply ignore this conundrum, feeling like cowboys trying to lasso an octopus – there are just too many loose ends. But they continue to perpetuate the "100% complete" myth, and excuse themselves by saying they make adjustments when necessary. An apology of "I'm sorry," when the false premise of "100% completeness" is still retained, deserves no forgiveness. 

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/new_wave.jpg 

Also consider that virtually all so-called complete pet foods are vigorously heat processed to gelatinize the unnatural starch components (making them "digestible" – meaning more easily converted to glucose) and to extend shelf-life by sterilization. Dry foods are extruded at hundreds of degrees and hundreds of pounds of pressure. Canned foods are retorted. Commercial pet foods also contain a mix of ingredients including meats, fats, starches (a variety of label dressing "natural" ingredient buzzwords) and vitamin/mineral "fortifiers." Although the ingredient label is evocative and beguiling, what is in the final product is another matter. Essential fatty acids are oxidized and isomerized. Cytotoxic, mutagenic and carcinogenic cholesterol oxidation products (COP) are formed, including C-7 derivatives, 5,6-epoxides, triols, 25-OHs and 3,5-dienes – the real culprits in human atherogenesis, incidently. The cooked meats form heterocyclic amines, proteins are degraded and amino acids destroyed or racemized. Carbohydrates are glycated, acrylamides are formed, vitamins destroyed, oxidized and racemized and minerals are complexed into unavailable matrices. The end result is a potpourri of imbalance, unavailability and toxicity – not "100% completeness." 

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/farmers_field2.jpg 

Yes, pets can survive for a time on such fare, but that is simply a testament to their physiological capacity to adapt. They seek equilibrium at higher and higher levels of toxicity until adaptive reserve is exhausted. Chronic degenerative diseases and immune failure is the end result. 

The point is, don't believe the claim on any commercially prepared pet (or human) food that it is "100% complete and balanced." It is a spurious unsupported boast, intended to build consumer trust and dependence on commercial products - not create optimal health. 

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/veterinarian_and_pediatrician.jpg 

Unfortunately, most people think animal feeding is a mystery. It is not. Animal nutrition is not a special nutritional science to which common sense human nutrition principles cannot be applied. Use the same reasoning in feeding your pets that you use for feeding your family. Nutrition is also not about some special ingredient, the absence of some boogeyman ingredient, or claims such as "natural," "organic," or the like.   

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/package.jpg 

If you feed processed foods, use discernment since just about anyone can create a commercial pet food. The pet food industry has hundreds of brands. Business profiteers and the occasional movie star are the most common forces behind the labels. All one needs is a little money and they can go to any number of toll manufacturers and have them slightly modify a shelf formula. Then all that is needed is to dress it all up with a fancy package, a clever brochure, and some advertising. Voila! Another brand is added to the 20-billion-dollar pet food industry heyday.  

http://www.wysong.net/images/myth/one_for_all.jpg 

Nutrition is a serious health business, not a mere opportunity to turn dollars.  Check the credentials of the decision maker at the head of the company you are entrusting your pet's health to and examine closely its operating philosophy. Health competence and principle should come before pretty packaging and beguiling hoopla. The public is not well served by exclusively feeding products from companies without any real commitment to health… or knowledge of how to even achieve it. 

For the past 25 years, I have been a lonely voice in the wilderness trying to get people to understand the deadly health consequences of feeding processed pet foods exclusively. People want convenience in a bag and the industry wants the flow of billions of dollars to continue uninterrupted. In the meantime, the scientific literature offers compelling proof that millions of animals have been maimed and killed as a result of feeding thoroughly tested "100% complete" foods… with the full imprimatur of government regulation. (Exactly the same thing that abounds in the FDA-pharmaceutical industry.)  

Examples of pet food disasters include dilated cardiomyopathy from taurine deficiency, potassium imbalances, fatty acid and carnitine deficiencies and numerous other problems that would be expected on a steady diet of dead, devitalized, carbohydrate-based processed foods. Moreover, the whole panoply of human chronic degenerative diseases such as cancer, obesity, arthritis, autoimmunities, dental deterioration and organ failure are at epidemic levels in the pet population… as should be expected on such a diet. 

"Thousands of pet cats die each year with dilated cardiomyopathy… observed in… cats fed commercial cat food…" (Science, Volume 237, pages 764-8) 

Not only is feeding the same processed food day in and day out a formula for disease, it is a cruelty to pets.  It is one thing to take them from their interesting and active wild setting and confine them, but to not even offer them interesting natural meal variety is really quite inexcusable. The answer, like everything else good in life, is a little attention and common sense. Knowledge is the best beginning point. 

To learn more, obtain a copy of my book, The Truth About Pet Foods. I will also see to it that you get a free copy of my CD, "The Thinking Person's Master Key to Health," and the brochure, "How to Apologize to Your Pet," which will give you specific guidelines for how to select packaged foods as well as prepare meals and treats to achieve optimal pet health.   

Also you can go to Wysong.net, click "learn," then "pets" and read the "Don't Be Fooled" section. 

Further reading and resources of scientific references:

Wysong, R. L. (2002). The Truth About Pet Foods. Midland, MI: Inquiry Press.

Science, Volume 237, pages 764-8

Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 199, pages 731-4

Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 201, pages 267-74

Feline Practice, Volume 20, Number 1, page 30

Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 202, pages 744-51

Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 191, pages 1563-8

Journal of Nutrition, Volume 129, pages 1909-14

Journal of Nutrition, Volume 126, pages 984-8

Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 203, pages 1395-1400

Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Volume 198, pages 647-50

Veterinary Clinics of North America Small Animal Practice, Volume 19, pages 527-37

Veterinary Forum, Volume 9, pages 34-5

Veterinary Forum, Volume 9, pages 26-8

American Journal of Veterinary Research, Volume 62, pages 1616-23

Petfood Industry, May/June 1998, pages 4-14

Journal of Animal Science, Volume 75, pages 2980-5

Veterinary Business, Volume 2, page 1

Waltham International Focus, Volume 3, Number 1, page 9

About the Author Dr. Wysong: A former veterinary clinician and surgeon, college instructor in human anatomy, physiology and the origin of life, inventor of numerous medical, surgical, nutritional, athletic and fitness products and devices, research director for the present company by his name and founder of the philanthropic Wysong Institute. http://www.wysong.net. Also check out http://www.cerealwysong.com.

Read more!

Puppy Training, a Positive Introduction to basic Obedience exercises

Pups are learning all the time and there is no reason to wait for them "to grow up" before you begin training. You can start your pup's first lessons at seven weeks. Doing some early training will turn on circuits in his brain that will make all later training easier.

Learning How to Learn 

Pups are learning all the time and there is no reason to wait for them "to grow up" before you begin training. You can start your pup's first lessons at seven weeks. Doin
some early training will turn on circuits in his brain that will make all later training easier.  

The goal for this puppy work is not that the pup learns the individual exercises, nor is it reliability of obedience to command. Rather, the goal is to have fun with your pup, jumpstart the learning process and to establish early on that good things happen when he is with you, and that good things come from work.   

Don't fret if you don't teach all the commands—doing any puppy work is better than none. While you are engaged in puppy training you are building a relationship with him. He learns to enjoy working with you as he learns about you. 

The great majority of puppy training and raising should emphasize positive interaction. However, your pup does need to learn some manners. He should learn early that there are some things he must not do. There are two reasons for this: 1) so you can stand to live with him, and 2) so that he learns to accept correction and parameters to behavior.  

The very short list of Don'ts includes: 

Don't bite humans

Don't jump on humans

Don't chew on furniture 

House breaking is better taught as a do rather than a don't. Teach your pup to do his business outside; try to avoid correction for going inside. Get a copy of "Eliminate on Command" by Dr. M.L. Smith. It's available on line at:
www.eliminateoncommand.com. 

Pups have a short attention span, so keep lessons brief and emphasize action commands. These are commands your pup can complete quickly such as sit, here, and finish to heel. Save the long stays and long heeling sessions for later when his attention is sufficiently developed to stay focused longer. 

Puppies learn exactly the same way as grown dogs (and people):  

A pup acts.

He experiences the result of his action.

He makes a connection in his mind between his action and the results, creating a memory.

If the result is desirable he is more likely to repeat that action in the future.

If the result is undesirable he is less likely to repeat that action in the future. 

Treat Training  

Food is a good motivator for puppy training but a weak motivator for grown dogs.

Motivational training is only part of a complete training program. In the end we want a dog that will obey commands, not simply respond to cues when there is nothing he'd rather do. While the principles espoused here and the benefits of puppy training will be an asset to your dog throughout his life, treat training cannot substitute for a formal training program for grown dogs.  

We will use food initially both to lure the pup into the action we want and as a reward for the desired action. When he knows the action we will put a cue to the action. When he will perform the action on cue, stop luring but continue to reward with food. After the dog is regularly performing correctly on cue, gradually reduce the frequency of the food reward. At first you are rewarding every correct response, and then go to every other response and then reward on an intermittent schedule. This is an important process—you do not want your dog to be dependant on the food lure, nor do you want him to be tied to a treat for every correct response. When you are rewarding intermittently he never knows which response will bring the treat so he will continue to work hard, hoping that each time may be the time.   

Start in a quiet room. I like doing the puppy training first thing in the morning before the pup's first meal—the pup is fresh, excited to start the day, and hungry! You also don't want to compete with the other dogs or people in the home for the pup's attention.  

You need a hungry pup and healthy treats that the pup can chew and swallow quickly. All-beef hot dogs cut to puppy-sized bites work well for most pups, although I use regular kibble for some chow hounds.  

Sit in Front  

Sit or squat on the floor with your legs or knees forming a V in front. This helps funnel the pup to the proper front alignment.  

Hold a treat in one hand out in front of you a little above the puppy's head level. When your pup notices the treat, raise the treat close to and over his head. He should sit, when he does, verbally praise and pet him and then give him the treat. If the pup stands up to wrestle the treat from you, twist your hand to protect the treat and prevent him from hanging on your hand. When he sits give him the treat.  

Don't worry if he jumps up as soon as he gets the treat; you're only concerned with teaching sit, not stay. 

Pause a moment and then repeat. After a few repetitions your pup will be sitting quickly to get his treat. Now let's put a cue or command to that action. From here on say "sit" as you start the hand movement and just before the pup sits. Continue to praise, pet and treat him when he sits.   

As soon as your pup is sitting, begin to work toward the perfect sit. You want to end up with straight sits, not flopped over on one hip. You want the pup in front and aligned facing you correctly.  

When you have practiced this for a session or two wean him off the food lure. Without holding the treat out in front of him say "sit" and then verbally praise, pet and food reward him when he does.  

After a few sessions begin to wean off treating the pup for every proper response, but continue to praise and pet him every time he sits on cue. 

Go out and Here--- Dixie Cup Lining Drills  

One of the easiest ways to teach your pup to come when you call him is to teach him to go away from you. Hold your pup and making sure he is watching, place a treat on top of a white eight ounce or larger Dixie cup.  Put the pup down about five inches from the cup and let him go. After he eats the treat call him to sit in front. Praise, pet and treat for every recall at first. 

Do several of these. When your pup is going straight to the treat and is sure of the location, begin to place the treat and then still holding the pup, back away, only a foot or so at first.  After you have backed up, hold the pup in front of you to show him the cup and then set him down and release him to get his treat. This sequence will become a pattern and a useful cue for him when you start lining him longer distances. After he eats his cup treat call him "Here" and praise, pet and treat (PPT) him for the sit in front.  As you increase the distance, begin to reward intermittently on the return, but continue to praise and pet him heartily on every return.  

Be sure to gradually increase the distance you are sending your pup.  As long as your pup is running straight to the cup and is not loosing focus on the task keep increasing the distances you back away.  

Kennel 

I teach grown dogs to go to a place board, half-crate, or pre-identified area on command. I use the command "Kennel" some like to use "Place." This serves to balance e-collar pressures because the action requires your dog to move away from you rather than toward you on command. This "kennel" command is also useful for loading a dog into boats, blinds, and crates. With grown dogs we will do initial force on casts using this command and introductory work on jumps. This is a versatile command.   

You can begin work on the kennel command once your pup knows sit. Use a place board about 12" x 12" and 2" high. Your pup will outgrow several puppy place boards so don't make them too fancy—I bet an old college text book will do to start.  

Use a treat to lure him on the board. When he climbs up on the place board or kennel give him the treat. Pause and allow him to explore and then climb off.  Repeat. 

When your pup is readily climbing up on the board you are ready to add a cue to the action.  Say "kennel" just as he begins to climb up.  

Begin to tell your pup to sit when he is on the place board. He has enough success now that you can stop giving the treat for climbing up and only treat for the sit when he is up. Very quickly you should be able to drop the sit command and his "kennel" will mean kennel up and sit.   

Call him off the place board to sit in front of you near the board and then cast him to kennel again.  

When your pup is responding quickly and reliably to your kennel command you can start gradually backing farther away from your place board. To make it easier for your pup walk toward the place board as you cast and cue him to "kennel."  

Introduce Jumps and Avoidable Hazards 

Once your pup is very comfortable on his kennel command and is lining out to the visible Dixie cups well you are ready to combine the two responses and introduce your pup to jumps. Start with a kennel close to you. Place your treat on the Dixie cup and back up. Hold your pup with the kennel just in front of you and between you and the Dixie cup. Release him to get his treat he should line right over the kennel to the cup and come back over the kennel on the return.  

With practice you can increase the distance between you and the kennel and between the kennel and the Dixie cup. Practicing success at short distances is better for your pup than pushing to increase the distance too fast and teaching him to run around the kennel.   

In Summary 

Your pup is only a pup for a very short time; don't expect him to act or train like a grown dog.  In addition to training, spend time with him just going for walks and let him run, jump and play.   

In all your puppy training remember your goals:

Have fun with your pup

You want your pup to learn how to learn.

You want to jumpstart the learning process

You want to establish early on that good things happen when he is with you, and that good things come from work.   

 by Pat Nolan

About the Author

Pat Nolan of Ponderosa Kennels in Smithsburg has over thirty years experience training dogs just like yours. You can read more about him and his methods at www.ponderosakennels.com 

Read more!

How to Choose the Right Dog Breed for Years of Quality Companionship

To bring a dog into the family is a big decision. The right dog can bring your family years of enjoyment and companionship, whereas the "wrong" dog can add miserly and annoyance to your life. There are many factors to consider in order to make sure you choose the best dog for your situation. This article discuss the important factors to consider before you bring home the puppy.

Dog owners don't just go out there and get any puppy they like! It is not as easy as you think. There are many factors to consider befo
e you decide to buy any puppy breed. Getting the right one will bring many years of happiness and quality companionship to you and your family. On the other hand, getting the wrong one will inevitably add headaches and irritations to your life.

Your financial standing, lifestyle, size and family type are important considerations to be factored when choosing a specific dog type.

While some breeds may required more attention, some require more exercises than the others, some are more suitable for families with young children, some are more prone to genetic health issues and some may simply required more money to own than others.

There are so many dog breeds out there to choose from and it is the dog owner's responsibility to find out which one is exactly suitable for his lifestyles and way of living. The number one reason for dogs to be surrendered to animal shelters is that they don't match the needs or the lifestyle of their owners. The idea of this article is to help you in choosing the right breed of dog to try and reduce the potential issues that could result when the wrong type is chosen.

Here are some important factors to consider before you proceed to bring your puppy home:

1. Accommodation - All dogs need some form of exercise in one way or another, but there are significant disparities among breeds. Small breeds tend to adapt better than large breeds to the smaller space available in an apartment. Nevertheless, some larger breeds who are not as active as others can still adapt well.

Consider how much room do you have for a dog, apartment and a house with or without fenced-in yard makes a different in the type of dog you should get. Having a fenced-in yard will cut down on the time required to walk your dog for bathroom breaks and exercising. All breed will adapt well in this type of setting, but the more active breeds will require more exercises. Giving a dog sufficient exercise is vital to having a good relationship with your dog. Many undesirable behaviors, such as hyperactivity, nuisance barking and destructive behaviors are results of insufficient exercise.

Regulations in your area regarding dog ownership also need to be considered. Some landlords do not allow dogs in their rental units at all, while some neighborhoods have strict guidelines regarding the size and the breed of dog that can be owned in that neighborhood.

2. Lifestyle - Dogs are social animals and require time from their owners, some more, some less. If you work long hours, a dog is really not the best pet choice, especially if you live alone. A pet like a cat or fish that require less upkeep may be a better fit for your lifestyle.

While there are some breeds that do not mind being left alone for longer period (Shetland sheepdog, golden retriever and bloodhound), many can suffer from separation anxiety and went on to develop undesirable behavior problems. Don't commit the crime of condemning an essentially social dog to lead a life of anxiety, and boredom. If you really cannot live without a dog, engage a dog sitter or put him at a dog daycare centre.

3. Family - Make sure that everyone in the family is supportive of a dog. There are breeds with tendency to show aggressive behavior and biting problems, which in most cases are unsuitable for families with younger children. Young ignorant children are likely to irritate the dogs through rough play without knowing what they are doing. Dogs joining a household with small children must be very tolerant of the children's play. Dogs from the herding group may not be the best choice as they have a natural instinct to herd livestock and may try to do so with your family. This natural instinct may cause nipping incidents to happen.

Existing pets in the household must be considered when getting a new dog. The temperament of the new dog needs to be compatible with those of the existing pets to make sure no problems will arise with the new addition. Territorial problems should be expected. They usually clear up within a week or so. It is recommended to feed the dogs in separate locations during the introduction period, as food is a common cause of conflict among dogs.

4. Financial Obligations - Dog ownership is a long commitment with on going expenses. The initial cost will vary depending on the breed and type of dog you select. On the whole, purebreds cost more than mixed breed dogs, especially if they are purchased from a breeder or a pet store. However, purebreds from breed rescues and animal shelter are less expensive. It is best to be able to see and meet your potential dog's parents.

Apart from the initial purchase price, you might want to go to a local pet warehouse to check out the prices of dog supplies. Dog food, collars, leashes, toys, food bowls, crates, and any other supplies you think you need for your dog, and not forgetting your veterinary bills, grooming expenses and even an insurance policy.

It is highly recommended to ask friends who own dogs about their expenses so as to give yourself a good idea of how much you need to commit financially to a dog.

5. Purpose of dog ownership - You should determine your purpose of dog ownership. Do you plan to breed, show, or hunt with the dog? Is the dog needed for service, therapy or for companionship only? For breeding or showing, you need a dog that meets or exceeds the standards for the breed and has all the appropriate documentation of its lineage. For hunting, you will require a good scent or sight-hunting dog. While many dogs are good for service or therapy, they need to have good temperaments, low ability to be distracted, and a willingness to learn. Knowing the purpose would inevitably help to select the right breed.

6. Size - Dogs can be largely divided into three size categories based on their weight at maturity. Small breeds are generally up to 20 pounds, medium breeds are from 20-50 pounds, and large dogs are greater than 50 pounds.

As a rule of thumb, bigger breeds are unsuitable if you live in a small apartment, or a home with a small or unfenced yard. Nevertheless, this is not the case for all dogs. Some breeds such as the golden retriever are still better suit living in smaller spaces than an active schnauzer. Temperament and activity level are equally important when selecting the right breed.

While smaller dogs generally do not require as much space as larger dogs, caution should be taken with small breeds due to their small and fragile bodies. Small dogs can be easily injured by rough play, either with people, or with larger dogs. On the other hand, large breeds can unintentionally cause harm to small children when playing. It is also found that large breeds have a shorter life span of 8-12 years while small breeds can live up to 15 or 16 years.

7. Temperament - Purebreds generally display well-understood mental temperaments and characteristics while mutts are more difficult to gauge. It is recommended to seek advices and consultation to choose a dog's temperament to complement your existing lifestyle. If you have children, look for dogs with a low tendency to bite and a high tolerance for handling. If it is a guard dog, you want it to be obedient but still able to effectively guard the territory. Dogs that are overtly aggressive should be avoided always.

In a nutshell, adding a dog to your family is a life changing and long commitment. Consider carefully before you decide to bring the puppy back. Take the time to choose the best dog breed. By doing so, I'm sure you will get to enjoy and be rewarded many times over by the love, affection and good company that he or she will bring into your life.

About the Author Moses Wright is an experience dog lover and owner of 3 beautiful dogs. He loves to help fellow dog owners with their dog obedience training problems. You can get a free copy of his book filled with useful and practical tips here: Free Dog Training Book

Read more!